This post is based primarily on
Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our Camino in 2016.
When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers
or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany
this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was
taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of
the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain
Wikimedia Commons) indicate that source in the caption.
MT Wednesday, September 14, 2016, 7:02 AM – Porto: Hotel Vila Galé – view
from our room of dark clouds.
7:48 AM – Porto: Hotel Vila Galé – Don’s
plate at breakfast buffet, with champagne and orange juice—after bowl of müsli
and yogurt, orange slices, and watermelon; MT’s plate and coffee across table.
8:11 AM – Porto: Hotel Vila Galé – breakfast
buffet with three serving lines.
We
departed the hotel at 8:45.
When
we decided to go with the Ireland-based Follow the Camino company, they gave us
the option, after Porto, of staying
on the Caminho Central (Central Route) or doing 8 days on the Caminho da Costa
(Coastal Route) and then linking up with the Central Route again at Redondela.
MT liked the coastal option, but Don was concerned about missing important
cities on the Central Route. For the Central Route, Follow the Camino provided
Brierley’s guidebook (which included an option of only one day on the coast
before rejoining the Central Route), and for the Coastal Route, they offered their
own “walking notes.” Don did some research and found a compromise route that
stayed on the coast for only 4 days and then followed the Portuguese side of
the Minho River diagonally for 2 days to link up with the Central Route at
Valença and then cross over the Rio Minho (Miño in Spanish) into Spain at Tui. He
found the town of Vila Nova de Cerveira at the halfway point of this diagonal
route, where Internet sources listed lodging available. The Follow the Camino
people said they had never had anyone do that route before; they would find us
a place to stay at the town at the midpoint but could provide no walking notes
to give us directions on the route. Don found good maps online, particularly a
series of detailed maps by Luis do Freixo, “Caminho do Minho: de Caminha a Tui”
at http://www.caminador.es/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/1-CAMINHOS-MINHO-SUR-GUIA-2x1-2.pdf. Don printed
out these maps and added (by hand) more details by zooming in on Google map at http://www.caminhosantiagoviana.pt/caminhocosta.html; for example,
where Freixo put the name of a road off to the side of the road, Don penciled
in where a particular road began and ended; he also added names of roads Freixo
had not named and landmarks such as chapels. These maps were easier to follow
than most of the walking notes anyway. One problem with the Follow the Camino
notes was that they often did not tell you what town you were in or what beach
you were on.
For our first day out of Porto on the Coastal Route, we were able to use a combination of Brierley (as far as Vila do Conde) and the Follow the Camino “walking notes.”
At the nearby Metro station Campo 24 de Agosto, we bought tickets (recharging our Metro cards for €1.50 each) for Zone 3. We took the A (Blue) Line toward Senhor de Matosinhos and got off at Mercado, the next to last stop.
The
Metro train left shortly after 9 am and arrived at the Mercado stop in Matosinhos
around 9:45.
Matosinhos is a city (pop.
45,703) and a concelho (municipality,
pop. 175,478). The Metro stop at the end of the line is named for the Igreja do
Senhor de Matosinhos (Church of the Lord of Matosinhos).
The Mercado stop is by the Mercado Municipal de Matosinhos
(Municipal Market of Matosinhos), which is large fish market. Matosinhos is
famed for its fresh fish, due to its large fishing fleet.
9:43 AM – Matosinhos: big fish market Mercado
Municipal de Matosinhos where we stopped to use the banho.
MT 9:49 AM – Matosinhos: fish in big mercado (market).
MT 9:50 AM – Matosinhos: lady selling fish in
big mercado (market).
We
followed Brierley’s note to go up a spiral staircase to get up onto the ponte
móvel (lift bridge). However, neither Brierley nor the Follow the
Camino notes adequately explained where to go after that. We asked a man, and
he told us to turn right, but then we saw a yellow arrow pointing left and
followed arrows to where a paved walkway began along the beach.
Still
in Matosinhos, we got carimbo stamps
at the Turismo office. Anticipating that we would fill more
than one credencial book on this camino, as we had done on our previous
two, we had each acquired a second book, which we now needed.
Matosinhos: first page of Don’s
second credencial book with carimbo stamp we got at Turismo, but from
“Mosteiro de Leça do Balio – Os Hospitalários no Caminho de Santiago –
Matosinhos,” with passport number and address removed.
Matosinhos: carimbo stamp we got at Turismo, but from “Mosteiro de Leça do
Balio – Os Hospitalários no Caminho de Santiago – Matosinhos,” [Monastery of Leça
do Balio – The Hospitallers on the Camino de Santiago], with rose window of Igreja de Santa
Maria de Leça do Bali within
the outline of a scallop shell.
The
Mosteiro de Leça do Balio
[Monastery of Leça do Balio],
where the 14th-century Igreja
de Santa Maria de Leça do Balio
[Church of St. Mary of Leça do Balio] is located, is in the freguesia (civil parish) of Leça do Balio in the concelho (municipality) of Matosinhos,
near the mouth of the Rio Leça.
The monastery originated in the 10th century, in the context of the Christian
Reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula. In the early 12th century, it was donated
to the Ordem dos Hospitalarios (Order of Hospitallers), also known as Ordem dos
Cabaleiros Hospitalários (Order of the Hospitaller Knights), one of the first
military-religious orders documented in Portuguese territory. The chapter house
of that order later became the seat of one of several bailiatos (bailiwicks), from which the name of the town Leça do Balio came. After the
abolition of religious orders in 1834, the monastery was abandoned and fell
into ruin; all that remains today is the church, which has a large, radiating
rose window on its façade.
Leça do Balio: Igreja de Santa Maria de Leça do Balio - rose window (By
Alegna13 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=16387714).
10:08 AM – Matosinhos: where we first got to
the beach, with lighthouse in distance at right.
10:09 AM – Matosinhos: where we first got to
the beach, with paved promenade at right and lighthouse in distance.
MT 10:16 AM – Matosinhos: Don where we first
got to the beach.
MT 10:16 AM – Matosinhos: Don where we first
got to the beach.
Soon
we came to the Piscina das Marés
(Swimming Pool of the Tides), which Don first thought might be the replica of
Roman salt tanks mentioned in Brierley).
10:13 AM – Matosinhos: Piscina das Marés.
The Piscina das Marés (Swimming Pool of the Tides) is a swimming area
on the beach of Leça da Palmeira in the concelho
(municipality) of Matosinhos. The structures, designed by the architect Alvaro
Siza Vieira, consist of two artificially augmented natural pools filled with
fresh sea water on the rocky beach.
10:14 AM – Matosinhos: Piscina das Marés.
10:14 AM – Matosinhos: sign for Piscina das
Marés, on which the near side says the swimming pool hours are 9 am to 7 pm and
the side to right gives the Public Prices.
MT 10:24 AM – Matosinhos: surf on rocks of Leça da Palmeira beach.
10:18 AM – Matosinhos: surf on rocks of Leça
da Palmeira beach (telephoto 90 mm).
Then
we came upon a sign that correctly identified these pools.
10:41 AM – Matosinhos: sign for “Marginal de
Leça da Palmeira (The Leça da Palmeira Waterfront)” in Portuguese and English;
English text [edited per Portuguese]:
“The
Leça da Palmeira Waterfront Avenue and its landscaping are part of a 2005
Alvaro Siza Vieira project, the most famous [contemporary] Portuguese architect
(Pritzker, 1992). Siza was born in Matosinhos and built to [two] more iconic
works along this avenue, namely the Tidal Pool [Portuguese: Piscina das Marés] (1966)
and the Boa Nova Tea House (1963). In this intervention, Siza tried to improve
the pedestrian and motorized routes, keeping the natural and landscape features
of the area and very subtly integrating the infra-structure linking the Port of
Leixões do [to] the refinery.”
Soon
we came to the Praia da Boa Nova
with the Farol da Boa Nova and the Capela da Boa Nova.
10:35 AM – Leça da Palmeira: Farol da Boa
Nova (telephoto 76 mm).
The Praia da Boa Nova (Beach of the Good News) is in Leça da Palmeira
in the municipality of Matosinhos. The center part of the beach is for
swimming, with rocks at the ends.
The Farol da Boa Nova (Lighthouse of Good News) is also known as Farol
de Leça (Lighthouse of Leça). Between 1916 and 1926, the Farolim da Boa Nova
existed, a quadrangular tower about 12 m tall, about 380 m northwest of the
present lighthouse, near the Capela do Boa Nova (Chapel of the Good News). That
lighthouse was only used for 10 years, then served as a school for faroleiros (lighthouse keepers) and was
later demolished. In December 1926 the 46-m tall Farol da Boa Nova, a white
conical tower with narrow black rings, began to operate on an experimental
basis, and it was officially inaugurated in 1927. Its beacons were extinguished
in 2001 because they were longer needed for navigation.
The Capela da Boa Nova (Chapel of the Good News), also known as Capela
de Nossa Senhora da Boa Nova (Chapel of Our Lady of the Good News), is in the freguesia (civil parish) of Leça da
Palmeira. It was founded in 1392 by the Franciscans.
Leça da Palmeira: Capela da
Boa Nova
10:39 AM – Leça da Palmeira: Farol da Boa
Nova from closer up (telephoto 46 mm).
10:41 AM – Leça da Palmeira: sign for “Farol
da Boa Nova (The Boa Nova Lighthouse)” in Portuguese and English; English part:
“The
Boa Nova Lighthouse is the second tallest in Portugal, with 46 meters and 225
steps and came into operation on December 15, 1926. Its construction has enabled
greater security in what was considered until then the most dangerous and
tragic coastal area in the country, known as the Black Coast due to its large
number of wrecks and bad traffic lights. The white light from this lighthouse
reaches approximately 28 nautical miles (52 kilometers) and the luminous signal
is distinguished by three bright flashes every 14 seconds. Until the 1960s the
lighthouse worked with oil lamps but was later electrified.”
MT 10:47 AM – Leça da Palmeira: Farol da Boa
Nova.
MT 10:48 AM – Leça da Palmeira: Don with
Farol da Boa Nova.
10:46 AM – Leça da Palmeira: unidentified
rock tower near Petrogal refinery.
MT 10:52 AM – Leça da Palmeira: Don and man with
parrot on paved walkway, with unidentified rock tower.
MT 10:51 AM – Leça da Palmeira: man with
parrot.
Next,
we came to the Praia Azul.
10:47 AM – Azul: signpost for “Azul” and
beginning of boardwalk; this was the first of a series of such markers. The next
marker stone to left shows, in gray on its left edge, the names of beaches
along the coast in a ruler-like fashion (from south to north: Matosinhos, Leça
da Palmeira Boa Nova, Azul, Aterro, Cabo do Mundo, Paraíso, Memória, Marreco,
Quebrada, Agudela, Pedras do Corgo, Pedras Brancas, Tuntão, Angeiras Sul, and
Angeiras Notre), with the present beach (Azul) marked with a darker, thicker
line. In the background, the boardwalk winds along the coastline.
The Praia Azul (Blue Beach) is situated in a small cove, flanked by
rock formations that stick out into the sea, sheltering the beach from winds.
It lies just to the north of the Capela da Boa Nova and the Farol da Boa Nova.
At Praia Azul, we finally got on a boardwalk.
10:47 AM – Azul: MT on boardwalk, with smoke
from refinery at right.
10:47 AM (Cropped) – Azul: MT on boardwalk,
with smoke from refinery at right. The yellow board on the boardwalk, like
others we would see, says in 6 languages: Bom Caminho, Buen Camino, Good
Journey, Bon Chemin, Guten Weg, and Buon Cammino. The blue board in the
foreground says “2.7 km” (upside down at left), “Circuito de Manutenção
[Fitness Circuit, literally Circuit of Maintenance]” (center), and again “2.7
km” (at right).
Most
of the day, we were on the boardwalks. Today, we actually met and/or walked a
bit with several other pilgrims: a group of 5 Americans, including the man who
had given us his card at a previous hotel breakfast; a Dutch couple; an Italian
couple; and 2 girls from Brazil.
10:49 AM – Azul: breakers on rocks.
10:50 AM – Azul: breakers on rocks and
looking back at Capela da Boa Nova; party of winding boardwalk at left.
Soon,
we came to the Praia do Cabo do Mundo.
11:12 AM – Cabo do Mundo: signpost and bar,
with boardwalk continuing along beach in distance.
The Praia do Cabo do Mundo (Beach of the Cape of the World) is on the
oceanfront of a place named Aldeia Nova, now in the freguesia (civil parish) of Perafita, but still in the municipality
of Matosinhos. The beach is near the chimneys of the refinery of Matosinhos
Industrial Park.
11:12 AM – Cabo do Mundo: signpost with name
of beach and post at right with the familiar ruler-like strip on its left edge
showing beaches from Matosinhos in the south to Angeiras Norte (the last beach
in the municipality of Matosinhos), with darker, thicker stripe for Cabo do
Mundo; refinery in background.
Next,
we came to Praia do Paraíso.
11:22 AM – Paraíso: signpost for beach or town.
The Praia do Paraíso (Beach of Paradise) is still in the freguesia (civil parish) of Perafita,
still in the municipality of Matosinhos. It is located immediately to the west
of the Kartódromo do Cabo do Mundo (Carting Track of Cabo do Mundo). The small
beach has an abundance of rock formations and little sand. It is a cozy beach,
without infrastructure (except for a restaurant and parking lot).
11:27 AM – Paraíso: surf on rocks and view
back to refinery.
11:32 AM – After Paraíso: sandy beach and
Obelisco da Praia da Memória in distance.
Next
we came to Praia da Memória beach,
with its obelisk.
11:33 AM – Praia da Memória: signpost for beach,
with the usual ruler-like marker post.
The Praia da Memória (Beach of Memory), previously known as Praia dos
Ladrões (Beach of the Thieves) and also as Praia do Pampelido (Sandy Beach), is
located in the town of Arnosa do Pampelido in the freguesia (civil parish) of Perafita, in the municipality of
Matosinhos. It has historical significance due to the landing of Dom Pedro in
1832, followed by an army of 7,500 men bent on instituting a liberal regime in
Portugal, to defeat the absolutist forces of his brother Dom Miguel during the
Portuguese Civil War (aka Liberal War). The choice of this landing site
surprised the absolutist army since they had expected an attack on Lisbon and
therefore had left the North unguarded. Dom Pedro won and became King Pedro IV
of Portugal.
11:35 AM – Praia da Memória: sign for “Parque
de Dunas (Dunas Park [Park of the Dunes])” in Portuguese and English; English
text [edited per Portuguese]:
“Memory
Beach initiates a 1 km circular walking path with 12 panels scattered along the
way, a sort of field guide where you can find information on biological
diversity, with pictures and comments about common plants and animals that you
may observe. The route takes place along the walkway that protects the dunes,
in full recovery of their [characteristic] biodiversity. Stop, watch and
listen: being patient is of the essence when it comes to observing and trying
to identify! It is natural that you come across many species not listed in the
panels; observe and record them in photography. Pay particular attention to
plants in blossom, this information makes it easier to identify the species
they belong to. Do not be afraid of insects: you become accustomed [instead of
the last 3 words, Portuguese has “depois de treinar o olhar” = after training
the glance], it is very gratifying to find them among the vegetation.
“Enjoy
your walk!”
11:35 AM – Praia da Memória: boardwalk with
obelisk in distance.
Near the long network of walkways
on the dune system arises the Obelisco
da Praia da Memória (Obelisk of the Memória Beach) or Obelisco da Memória
(Obelisk of Memory), between the civil parishes of Perafita and Lavra. It was
erected in honor of Dom Pedro’s victory. The first stone was laid in 1840, just
8 years after Pedro’s landing here and on the 200th anniversary of Portuguese
independence, but the monument was not completed until 24 years later. It was
classified as a National Monument in 1880. The obelisk is constructed of
granite and includes references to the date of the landing on two metal crowns
placed at the top. The four limestone panels at the base refer to the
initiative of building the monument, the names of some commanders of the
“Liberating Army,” and the proclamation that Dom Pedro made to the soldiers
before the landing.
11:36 AM – Praia da Memória: obelisk along
boardwalk.
11:37 AM – Praia da Memória: sign for “O
Obelisco da Memória (Memória Obelisk) with text in Portuguese and English;
English text [edited per Portuguese]:
“The
Obelisk of ‘Memória’ marks the spot where, on July 8th 1832, King Pedro IV and
the 7500 men of his liberal army disembarked, marking [the beginning of] the
end of the absolutist regime that had hitherto dominated Portugal. After
landing, the liberation army advanced to the city of Porto which would be [Portuguese:
where it would be] kept under siege for a year (the Siege of Porto). The first
stone of this monument was laid on December 1st 1840 in remembrance of this
event, under the auspices of Queen Mary II, daughter of Pedro IV. After several
delays, the obelisk was finally completed in 1864 and classified as a national
monument in 1880.” MT on boardwalk at right.
11:37 AM – Praia da Memória: sign along
boardwalk for “15 Tesouros de Matosinhos – 500 anos do foral [1514-2014]” (15 Treasures
of Matosinhos – 500 years of charter [1514-2014]) and specifically for “Quadro
con Chave em Ouro” (Picture with Golden Key) with text in Portuguese that
translates:
“The golden key of the existing coffer in the
Obelisk of Memória, which guards the speech given by Queen Dona María II in the
inauguration of this monument, can be contemplated, up to the 28th of February
2015, in the exhibition ‘15 Treasures of Matosinhos,’ displayed in the Gallery
Nave of the Municipal Hall and integrated in the commemorations of 500 years of
granting the charter.”
Then
we came to the Praia da Quebrada.
11:46 AM – Praia da Quebrada: signpost for
beach.
The Praia da Quebrada beach is on the beachfront of a place called
Marreco. It is in a cove flanked by rock formations, providing calmer waters.
The beach is bordered on the north by the Ribeira da Agudela. To the southwest,
there is a huge islet about 200 m from shore.
Then
we came to the Praia da Agudela.
11:51 AM – Praia da Agudela: signposts for
beach, with breakers on rocks and boardwalk.
The Praia da Agudela, also known as Praia das Pedras da Agudela (Beach
of the Rocks of Agudela), is characterized by a string of rocks along almost
its entire length. The exceptions are a small swimming area in the north and a
larger area in the south with quieter waters due to the protection of the rocks.
The beach is surrounded by dunes with boardwalks.
11:55 AM – Praia da Agudela: another group of
signposts for beach (there were 3 of them), with post at left with ruler-like
list of beaches on which “Agudela” is highlighted.
11:59 AM – Praia da Agudela: signpost with
“ruler” of beaches at left, on which Agudela is highlighted with thicker,
darker line.
11:59 AM – Praia da Agudela: another group of
signposts for beach, with breakers and boardwalk; first view of Póvoa de Varzim
and Vila do Conde in distance.
11:55 AM – Praia da Agudela: beach, with view
of Póvoa de Varzim and Vila do Conde in distance.
11:55 AM – Praia da Agudela: breakers and
view of Póvoa de Varzim (farther away on left) and Vila do Conde (right) around
bend of coast (telephoto 90 mm).
11:59 AM – Praia da Agudela: signposts, branch
of boardwalk down to beach, and view of Póvoa de Varzim and Vila do Conde in
distance around bend of coast (another town is closer, on right).
12:02 PM – Praia da Agudela: boardwalk across
sand with towns in distance.
Next
we came to the Praia das Pedras do Corgo.
12:08 PM – Praia das Pedras do Corgo:
signposts and bar next to boardwalk.
The Praia das Pedras do Corgo (Beach of the Rocks of Corgo) has
extensive sand and a dune system. In the center part, a rocky strip enters the
sea.
12:08 PM – Praia das Pedras do Corgo: close-up
of signposts including one with “ruler” of beaches at left, on which Pedras do
Corgo is highlighted with thicker, darker line.
Next
we came to the Praia do Funtão.
12:22 PM – Praia do Funtão: signpost with
name of beach, next to boardwalk leading to nearby town (possibly Lavra).
The Praia do Funtão (Funtão Beach), also known as Praia das Pedras do
Funtão (Beach of the Rocks of Funtão), primarily serves the inhabitants of
Lavra and surrounding localities. It has a calm sea and a lot of sand.
12:22 PM – Praia do Funtão: signposts
including one with “ruler” of beaches at left, on which Funtão is highlighted
with thicker, darker line.
12:23 PM – Praia do Funtão: sign for “A Villa
Romana do Fontão (The Roman Villa at Fontão)” with text in Portuguese and
English [note the alternate spelling for Funtão in both versions]; English text
[edited per Portuguese]:
“The
Fontão area holds the most ancient settlement traces in the municipality of
Matosinhos. The remains of a megalithic monument in Antela, stemming from [Portuguese:
dating from] the 3rd millennium BC, and some pits discovered near the Parish
Church, assigned [Portuguese: attributed] to the Bronze Age, certify the great
antiquity of this place. A roman villa also existed here in the 3rd and 4th
centuries AD, according to several archaeological remains, including columns
and tiles [Portuguese: columns and mosaics]. This settlement was rather
important during the Suebic and Visigothic periods (5th to 8th [Portuguese: V-VII]
centuries AD), being one of the parishes mentioned in the Suebic Parochiale. A
document from the late 9th century already [Portuguese: also] refers to the
existence of a monastery in Lavra as ‘of ancient origins.’ ”
Next
we came to the Praia de Angeiras Sul
and the village of Angeiras.
12:27 PM – Praia de Angeiras Sul: signpost
with name of beach highlighted by its size, near the top of the list of beaches
in the municipality of Matosinhos; village of Angeiras in background.
The Praia de Angeiras Sul (South Beach of Angeiras), also known as
Praia Central (Central Beach) or Praia Azul (Blue Beach), includes two small
coves on the shoreline. Its extensive sand is very exposed to the north winds.
At its center is a little sandy protuberance that enters the sea and ends in a
rock formation.
Angeiras is known as a
fishing village.
12:29 PM – Angeiras: Casa do Mar next to sign
for what Brierley says is a replica of Roman salt tanks.
The Municipality of Matosinhos
web site says the traditional stone fishermen’s shed, called the Casa do Mar (House of the Sea) is now a
museum of artisanal fishing and that these structures were used until the
mid-20th century by the large farming houses of the region, where “seamen”
stored their boat, tools for work and for harvesting of seaweed and pilados (small crabs) that were used for
fertilizer in agriculture.
That web site also says that
these tanks, outside, are replicas and that the original Roman salt tanks
(dating from the 2nd to 4th centuries) are permanently silted some tens of
meters away. Examples of similar tanks are in Póvoa de Varzim.
12:29 PM – Angeiras: next to boardwalk is
sign for “Tanques Romanos para Salga de Peixe (Roman Tanks for Fish Salting)”
with text in Portuguese an English; English text [edited per Portuguese]:
“Spread
along 600 meters along the Angeiras Beach, there are six clusters of tanks
amounting to 32 pieces [Portuguese: with a total of 32 examples], excavated in
the rocks [Portuguese: rocky outcropping] during the Roman period (3rd to 4th
centuries AD). These rectangular cavities of different depths would be used for
fish salting and the production of other types of canned [Portuguese:
preserved] fish, including the famous ‘garum.’ Close to some tanks, several
structures were also detected, formed by pebbles and clay floors [Portuguese:
floors composed of pebbles and clay] and enclosed by small stone walls. These
are the remains of the salterns where salt was extracted for brine production
in the tanks. Due to its rarity and importance, this roman industrial
settlement is classified as a National Monument since 1970.”
Garum is a paste
resulting from the maceration of several species of fish and mollusks with
wine, olive oil, and other products. This was an appetizer much appreciated by
the Romans.
Salterns (also called
salt evaporation ponds, salt works, of salt pans) are shallow artificial ponds
designed to extract salt from sea water or other brines. The sea water is fed
into the ponds and water is drawn out through natural evaporation, which allows
the salt to be subsequently harvested.
12:29 PM – Angeiras: replicas of Roman salt
tanks with salterns in background.
12:32 PM – Angeiras: boardwalk approaching
fishermen’s village.
Between
Praia de Angeiras Sul and Praia de Angeiras Norte, we came to the Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras.
12:33 PM – Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras:
sign for “A Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras (The Fishermen Beach at Angeiras)”
with text in Portuguese and English; English text [edited per Portuguese]:
“The
original name of this place was ‘Praia da Forcada.’ Until the early 20th
century it was seasonally attended [Portuguese: occupied], in accordance
[Portuguese: connection] with the Sea Houses [Portuguese: Casas do Mar] used by
the large farmhouses in the region for maritime activities complementary to
agriculture (inshore fishing, gathering seaweed and small crabs as fertilizer,
etc.). Since then this beach began to have a more permanent occupation by the growing
[Portuguese: a more permanent and growing occupation by a] fishermen community,
which resulted in the designation of ‘Praia dos Pescadores.’ Today, this is an
important center of artisanal fishing of many species like pout, bass and
octopus. The sardines and coastal shrimps of [the coast of] Angeiras are
considered the best in the country. Initially rowing and sailing boats nowadays
replaced by modern motor boats. [Portuguese: initially the boats with oars and
sails, called catrales and mirangos, were used, later replaced by more modern
boats with motors.]”
Between the Praia de Angeiras Sul
and Praia de Angeiras Norte is the Praia
dos Pescadores de Angeiras (Beach of the Fishermen of Angeiras). It is
located in Lavra, in the municipality of Matosinhos. The Avenida da Praia is a
traditional fishing zone, where there is a municipal market well known for its
fish (especially sardines). There is a small lighthouse and a siren that helps
the fishermen find the beach in the fog.
The meaning of the name Praia da
Forcada is unclear. However, a fordado is a (pitch)fork used in agriculture and
gardening.
12:33 PM – Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras:
boardwalk through fishermen’s village with boats and colorful houses.
12:34 PM – Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras:
fishing boat and colorful houses.
MT 12:41 PM – Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras:
colorful houses.
12:34 PM – Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras:
fishing traps.
12:36 PM – Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras:
fishing boat with cabin.
12:37 PM – Praia dos Pescadores de Angeiras:
waterfront with yellow Camino arrow on utility pole.
Then
we came to Praia de Angeiras Norte.
The Praia de Angeiras Norte (Beach of Angeiras North), located in
Angeiras, has dunes and many rocks. Just north of it is the Rio Onda, forming
the boundary between the municipalities of Matosinhos and Vila do Conde.
12:40 PM – Approaching Praia de Angeiras
Norte: sign for “A Recolha do Sargaço ([The] Harvesting [of] Seaweed)” with
text in Portuguese and English; English text [edited per Portuguese]:
“The
harvesting of seaweed for agricultural fertilizer was abundantly practiced by
local farmers and was an important activity in the beaches of Lavra for many
centuries, due to the ease of harvesting and the seaweed’s abundance here.
[Portuguese: The gathering of seaweed, a fertilizer abundantly used by the
coastal populations that dedicated themselves to agriculture, assumed great
importance for centuries in the areas of Lavra, due to the ease of the
harvesting from some beaches as well as the abundance of the same on those
beaches.] This activity was done by women, the sargaceiras (seaweeders) [who
used a graveto*] to collect the seaweed and take it to [the village, where it
needed to] dry in the sun for three days, before being used together with small
crabs to fertilize the farmlands in the area [Portuguese: freguesia = civil
parish]. Seaweed has been a tax-free product since remote times [and by royal
decision], which also contributed to the popularity of this activity.
Harvesting is still practiced nowadays, mainly [destined] to the pharmaceutical
and cosmetics industries.”
*A graveto can be translated
as gig, but also as stick or twig. However, the photo on this sign shows a sargaceira (woman harvesting seaweed)
with a large rake.
12:40 PM –Praia de Angeiras Norte: signpost
for this beach, in same style as at Praia de Angeiras Sul, but this time with
“Angeiras Norte” highlighted by its size and position at the top of the list.
MT 12:40 PM –Praia de Angeiras Norte: MT and
fisherman.
12:43 PM –Praia de Angeiras Norte: man
roasting skewered seafood (related to polvo,
octopus).
Then
we crossed a large pedestrian bridge over the Rio Onda, leaving the municipality of Matosinhos.
12:47 PM –After Praia de Angeiras Norte: pedestrian
bridge (over Rio Onda) for boardwalk.
The Rio Onda river forms the boundary between the beaches of Angeiras (in
the União das Frequesias [Union of the Parishes] of Perafita, Lavra, and Santa
Cruz do Bispo in municipality of Matosinhos) and the parish of Labruge (municipality
of Vila do Conde).
12:47 PM –After Praia de Angeiras Norte: sign
for “Rio Onda (Onda River)” with text in Portuguese and English; English text:
“The
Onda River, also known as Donda, Calvelhe, Labruge or Foz, divides the parishes
of Lavra (Matosinhos) and Labruge (Vila do Conde). It is 11.8 km long and
drains an area of 48.58 km2. It mainly crosses farmland and forest
areas and shows biotic indexes of low biodiversity. It used to be known for
good fishing and intense milling activity.”
MT 1:10 PM – After Praia de Angeiras Norte:
Don on wooden steps (to boardwalk) with monument in distance.
1:01 PM –After Praia de Angeiras Norte: boardwalk
along rocky beach and monument in distance.
Then
we came to the São Paio area.
São
Paio
is a prehistoric castro (hill
fortress) and chapel on a prominent position on the headland. The Castro de São
Paio was discovered in the 1950s by Fernando Lanhas and Dom Domingos de Pinho
Brandão, who found remains of the Asturian type dating from the late Paleolithic
period (around 30,000 to 15,000 BC). Since then, it has been destroyed by several
curious people with well-intentioned aims. From 1993 to 1996, archaeological
excavations were carried out with the aim of saving the castro from destruction. Archaeological investigations continue to
explore the myths and meaning of this ancient settlement. It is the only
maritime castro of the Portuguese
part of the Northwest Peninsula. In the vicinity are boulders of polished stone
used for the manufacture of axes.
The Praia de São Paio (Beach of St. Paio) is on the border of the
municipality of Vila do Conde and on the border between the freguesias (civil parishes) of Vila Chã
and Labruge. This beach is also known as Praia dos Castros (Beach of the Hill
Fortresses), due to the ruins of several buildings. Its main characteristics
are the cliffs around a small beach, which provide shelter from the traditional
northeast winds.
The camino route continues to a
small cove below São Paio, where a narrow path skirts the beach and winds its
way up toward the pillar on the headland, onto a boardwalk with information
panels on the history of the Iron Age settlement built next to the Capela de
São Paio. Along with the chapel, vestiges can still be found of old circular
houses as well as the remains of a defensive wall.
1:05 PM –
São Paio: sign for “S. Paio” and more specifically “Gravuras da área de S. Paio
(S. Paio Engravings)” with text in Portuguese and English; English text [edited
per Portuguese]:
“[Portuguese
begins differently: A prospection conducted by Fernando Lanhas, permitted to
identify until now three engravings other than the ‘polishing stones,’ in the
area of S. Paio.] In the S. Paio area three engravings other than the
‘polishing stones’ were identified in the 1960’s by the Castro discoverer
Fernando Lanhas. These three engravings suggest a strong symbolism with the whole
area [Portuguese: in the area surrounding the Castro]. The southern engraving
seems to be an Algiz: a Nordic runic alphabet element and a symbol to evoke divine
protection. It can be traced to the Iron Age, but is more likely to have come
from some Norman / Viking camp that was built in the area. [Portuguese version
of the last two sentences: The engraving identified most to the south appears
to be an algiz. The algiz was a rune, element of the Nordic alphabet, that
could have been drawn in the Iron Age or even in the Middle Ages on the occasion
of a Norman / Viking encampment that could have been established here. The
runes, besides being letters of an alphabet, were also symbols. The algiz
evoked divine protection.] The other engravings are less clear and their
chronology is unknown.” The English part of the caption below the picture of
the symbols is: “Scheme of the known engravings.”
1:05 PM – São Paio: view, from near monument,
back along coast toward refinery.
1:06 PM – After São Paio monument: MT and
Dutch couple on boardwalk heading toward Capela de São Paio.
The Capela de São Paio (Chapel of St Paio) is on the slope that
separates the beach from the road. Although the façade is dated 1885, there are
records of this hermitage since 1623. The name comes from the young martyr
Pelayo (Paio in Portuguese), nephew of the bishop of Porto, who was taken
prisoner with the bishop in the Battle of Junquera Valley in 920 and was taken
to Córdoba by the caliph Abd-Al-Rahman III.
1:07 PM –São Paio: panel for “S. Paio” and
more specifically “O entalhe basal (Encoche)” with text in Portuguese and
English; English text:
“The
encoche are [Portuguese: O entalhe basal ou saca = The basic carving or sack is]
a curved indentation in the rock that results from the sea action. They [Portuguese:
the sacks] are sometimes associated with the remains of ancient beaches
[Portuguese lacks the rest of this sentence] that are subsequently compacted
and consolidated. That is the case in one of the encoches at S. Paio
[Portuguese: one of the sacks of the Alto do Facho. The sacks that can be seen
on the slope of Alto do Facho in S. Paio are], 9 m above sea level, which
allowed dating it to 125,000 years ago. This formation is connected with [Portuguese:
Their chronology is similar to] an ancient beach consolidated in the northern
hill (Alto de Mota) [Portuguese: an ancient beach situated on the slope of Alto
da Mota, reaching only 5 meters in altitude. These values point to the
existence of a vertical movement but with different rhythms between the Alto do
Facho and the Alto da Mota]. They have the same age but not the same height,
probably corresponding to the existence of neotectonics in S. Paio.” English
part of caption under drawings: “Hypothetical rendering of the encoche 125,000
years ago.”
An alto is a height or
summit.
MT 1:24 PM –São Paio: succulent with flower.
After
the freguesia (civil parish) of
Labruge, we entered the parish of Vila
Chã, still in the municipality of Vila do Conde.
1:22 PM – Praia do Puço (after São Paio): monument
for crash-landing of British bomber in World War II, with photo of crashed
plane and text in Portuguese and English; English text:
“ARVO
LANCASTER III; Model: Arvo Lancaster III; Date: 17 September 1943; Location:
Praia do Puço – Vila Chã (Vila do Conde); Force: RAF – 619 Sq[audro]n; From –
To: Voo to Conningsby (GB); Crew [7 names]; English Bomber Avro Lancaster III
participated in an attack on the railway linking France to Italy, ANTHEOR zone,
Cannes. It has been hit by anti-Aerío [antiaircraft] fire. It is believed that
[it] tried to reach Gibraltar, when [it] landed at this location. The entire
crew survived helped by fishermen. – Source: ‘Landing in Portugal’ – Carlos
Guerreiro, EER – Evade and Escape Report.” Portuguese text at bottom says the
monument was inaugurated on 22 November 2015.
1:23 PM – Praia do Puço (after São Paio): fishermen’s
house on beach.
1:25 PM – Freguesia Vila Chã (after São Paio):
sidewalk on road along beach; Vila do Conde in distance.
1:32 PM – Freguesia Vila Chã (after São
Paio): more of the colorful fishermen’s houses.
Then
we came to Praia Nova (New Beach),
where we were once again on a boardwalk.
1:39 PM – Praia Nova: sign for beach and
“Percurso Pedonal e Ciclavel do Litoral Sul de Vila do Conde” (Pedestrian and
Cycling Path of the South Coast of Vila do Conde), pointed to by one of 3 girl
pilgrims.
Then
we came to Praia da Terranova (Beach
of New Land), on the same pedestrian and cycling path.
1:41 PM – Praia da Terranova: sign for beach
and “Percurso Pedonal e Ciclavel do Litoral Sul de Vila do Conde” (Pedestrian
and Cycling Path of the South Coast of Vila do Conde).
The Praia da Terranova is on the coast in front of a place named Facho.
Then
we came to Praia de Laderça, on the
same pedestrian and cycling path (boardwalk). This was where the Dutch couple
stopped.
1:49 PM – Praia de Laderça: sign for beach
and “Percurso Pedonal e Ciclavel do Litoral Sul de Vila do Conde” (Pedestrian
and Cycling Path of the South Coast of Vila do Conde).
Next
we came to Praia de Mindelo.
The Praia de Mindelo is in a small cove with lots of rock formations at
its northern end that shelter it from the traditional north winds. The best
place for swimming is at the southern end.
2:02 PM – Praia de Mindelo: sign for “Zona Balnear
de Mindelo Vila do Conde – Praia de Mindelo” (Swimming Zone of Mindelo [in
Municipality of] Vila do Conde – Beach of Mindelo); sign in background for “No
Animals” in Portuguese, French, English, and German.
2:10 PM – Praia de Mindelo: sign for beach
and “Percurso Pedonal e Ciclavel do Litoral Sul de Vila do Conde” (Pedestrian
and Cycling Path of the South Coast of Vila do Conde).
Next
we came to Praia de Árvore. We
stopped at a restaurant (Manuel de Sousa Ferreira Lda.) there to use the banho and bought a 0.5-liter bottle of
water (€1).
2:33 PM – Praia de Árvore: sign for beach and
“Percurso Pedonal e Ciclavel do Litoral Sul de Vila do Conde” (Pedestrian and
Cycling Path of the South Coast of Vila do Conde).
2:37
PM – Praia de Árvore: restaurant where we used banho and bought water.
2:44 PM – Praia de Árvore: view north up
beach to Vila do Conde and possibly Póvoa de Varzim in distance.
Before
crossing the Rio Ave into Vila do Conde, we passed through Azurara, still on the south side of the river.
Azurara is a town and
seat of a freguesia (civil parish,
pop 2,305) of the same name in the municipality of Vila do Conde. It received a
charter from Count Dom Henrique in 1102. It remained an important seaport, and
the production of vessels in its shipyards contributed to the Portuguese Age of
Discoveries. However, despite its strategic location, it received no foral (charter) from King Manuel I in
the 16th century.
2:56 PM –Vila do Conde: church and (medieval)
tower.
The Igreja de São Francisco de Azurara (Church of St. Francis of
Azurara) and the associated convent have a long history, although the present
church dates from the 18th century.
Azurara: Igreja de São
Francisco de Azurara (which Wikimedia Commons misidentifies as Igreja da
Misericórdia de Azurara (Vila do Conde)
The origins of the Convento de
São Francisco de Azurara (Convent of St. Francis of Azurara), to which the
church was attached, remain unclear. (Convento
can also mean monastery, for a male religious order.) Some believe the Knights
Templar were established in this location and would then have had a role in the
founding of the convent (before the Templar order was disbanded in 1312);
however, it is not possible to confirm this tradition. The only thing that is certain
is that the church and convent were already standing here in 1518. According to
some sources, the first convent here was founded in 1424, dedicated to Nossa
Senhora dos Anjos (Our Lady of the Angels) or Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Our
Lady of the Assumption) and belonging to the Província de Portugal (Province of
Portugal) of the Ordem dos Frades Menores (Order of the Friars Minor), which is
another name for the Franciscan Order. In 1518, the Provincial of the Cloister
donated it to the Província de Piedade (Province of Piety), consisting of the
Franciscan convents north of the Rio Tagus (Tejo). Until 1588, it was the
novitiate house, but at that time it was in such a state of ruin that it had to
be abandoned and the monks moved to Braga. In 1591, works to renovate the
structure began. In 1676, for unknown seasons, the church was demolished and
then rebuilt starting in 1750. The work was completed in 1755, when the choir
and façade were finished, and the statues placed in the respective niches.
The façade has a window in the
center that illuminates the high choir. Between the window and the central arch
of the entrance is the coat of arms of the Franciscan Order. Above the central
window is a statue of Our Lady of the Angels, to whom the church is dedicated.
Access to the sacristy is through the lateral body (on the right), topped by a
bell gable that was added in 1731, with a double bell. The body (relics) of the
martyr St. Donatus, protector of the people of the sea, was brought from Rome
to Azurara and deposited in this church in 1757. With the extinction of
religious orders in 1834, the whole property of the convent was sold to a
native of Vila do Conde who later donated it to a family in whose possession
the convent remained until 1930, when it was again sold. Since 1990, it has
been owned by the Ordem Terceira da São Francisco de Azurara (Third Order of
St. Francis of Azurara).
The convent and the church have
been known by various names: de Nossa Senhora dos Anjos (of Our Lady of the
Angels), de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (of Our Lady of the Assumption), and dos
Franciscanos Capuchos (of the Franciscan Capuchins).*
*The Ordem dos Frades Menores
Capuchin (Order of Friars Minor Capuchin) is among the chief offshoots of the
Franciscans, named for the hoods (cappuccio
in Italian) that were part of their monk’s attire. Although The Franciscan
Order (Order of Friars Minor) was founded in 1209 by St. Francis of Assisi, the
Capuchin branch was not founded until 1520 and therefore could not have been
connected with this convent before 1518.
3:34 PM –Vila do Conde: MT back on paved path
by beach, with threatening sky.
We
stopped for carimbo stamps at the
Turismo office in Vila do Conde.
Vila do Conde: carimbo stamp from “Comissão Municipal de Turismo – Vila do Conde”
(Municipal Commission of Tourism – Vila do Conde.)
Vila
do Conde
is a town and a concelho
(municipality) of the same name (pop. 79,533) in the Norte Region. The
urbanized area of the municipality, which includes the freguesias (civil parishes) of Vila do Conde, Azurara, and Árvore,
has a population of 36,137. Vila do Conde is interlinked to the north with Póvoa
de Varzim, forming a single urban agglomeration.
Vila do Conde is one of the
oldest settlements in northern Portugal. There are Paleolithic artifacts dating
from 100,000 to 15,000 years ago, as well as implements and mounds dating back
to the Bronze Age and Neolithic periods. The earliest document referring to the
Villa de Comite is from 953. However, its ancient origins date back to the
Castro de São João and other Iron Age castros
(hill fortresses) within the current municipality. During Roman times, the area
was an important exporter of salt.
The founding of this settlement
in 1200 is linked to King Sancho I of Portugal, although he left its
administration to Conde (Count) Mendonça de Peas Rofinho, after whom the
village became known. During the 16th century, it reached the height of its
commercial and maritime importance due to ship construction associated with the
Portuguese Age of Discovery. Many of its historic buildings date from that
century. When King Manuel I passed through during a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in 1502,
it spurred the development of some of the important infrastructures in the
city, including the main church, main square, and municipal buildings. Manuel I
granted a foral (royal charter) in
1516. During the early 19th century, French troops were responsible for many
deaths and the destruction and pillaging of many infrastructures. In 1997, the
urbanized area was elevated to the status of city.
After
Vila do Conde, it started to sprinkle, but turned to rain as we got close to Póvoa de Varzím.
Póvoa
de Varzím
is a city (pop. 42, 396) in a concelho
(municipality) of the same name (pop. 63,408) in northern Portugal, in the
Sub-region of Greater Porto. It is located halfway between the Douro and Minho rivers.
The city extends southward to Vila do Conde, forming a combined urban area.
The area has been inhabited since
the Lower Paleolithic period, around 200,000 BC. The first group of shepherds
settled on the coast between the 4th millennium and early 2nd millennium BC. The
permanent settlement of Póvoa de Varzim dates back to around 900 BC, when widespread
pillaging by rival and migrant tribes in the region led to the establishment of
the Cividade de Terroso, a fortified city on a hill by the sea, which developed
trade routes with the civilizations of classical antiquity. Modern Póvoa de
Varzim emerged after the conquest of the Roman Republic in 138 BC left the
Cividade de Terroso in ruins. The region was pacified during the reign of
Caesar Augustus (27 BC-14 AD), and the castro
(hill fortress) people returned to the coastal plain, where Villa Euracini and
Roman fish factories were built. Fishing and fish processing soon developed as
the foundations of the local economy. With the fall of the Roman Empire, Suebi
(Swabian) people established themselves in the countryside around 953 AD. The
region was attacked by Vikings in the 960s, by the Moors in 997, and again by
Norman pirates in 1015-1016. There are hints of a Norman settlement in Villa Euracini
after those invasions. During the Middle Ages, the name Euracini evolved into
Uracini, Vracini, Veracini, Verazini, Verazim, Varazim, and eventually Varzim. By
the 11th century, the fish industry and fertile farmlands were the economic
base of a feudal lordship, and Varzim was fiercely disputed between the local
landlords and the early Portuguese kings. This resulted in the granting of a foral (royal charter) in 1308, giving
the royal land to 54 families of Varzim and establishing the present
municipality known as Póvoa around the Praça Velha (Old Square) in the Vila Velha
(Old Town) of Varzim. (Póvoa seems to
be related to modern Portuguese povo
people, and povoação population,
township.) In 1312, King Dinis included Póvoa in the patrimony of the Convento
de Santa Clara, which he had just founded in nearby Vila do Conde. Over time,
the domination of the town by the abbess of the convent grew stronger, and the
people asked King Manuel I to end the situation. In 1514, King Manuel granted a
new charter to Póvoa de Varzim. Póvoa de Varzim’s importance re-emerged with
the Portuguese Age of Discovery due to its shipbuilders and the proficiency and
wealth of its merchants, who traded around the globe. In the 16th century, fishermen
started to work as pilots and crew of Portuguese ships. By the 17th century, a
third of the population was involved in the naval industry. However, at the
same time, the fish industry rebounded, and Póvoa became the dominant fishing
port in northern Portugal. By the beginning of the 18th century, the shipyards
turned to the construction of fishing vessels. By the end of the 19th century,
Póvoa de Varzim was already the third largest urban center between the Douro
and Minho, after Porto and Braga. Despite this, the local elite was against
gaining the status of cidade (city).
However, major development in the 1930s and 1960 led to the award of city
status in 1973.
Since
it has started to rain, we stopped at a bar on the beach, and the young lady
told us the bus stopped near there about twice an hour. There was no shelter at
the bus stop; so we asked about a taxi.
We
took a taxi 4:00-4:15 to the Axis Vermar
Hotel (4-star). They said they had put us in a better room than we had
reserved; it turned out to be a suite (No. 100) with a normal hotel double bed,
bathroom, etc. on the floor where we entered the suite and stairs down to a
lower level with 2 twin beds and another bathroom. Both levels had balconies.
We showered (upstairs and down) and washed clothes and hung them on the upper
balcony.
Póvoa de Varzim: carimbo stamp from “Axis Vermar – Turilima, S.A.” Axis Vermar is
one of six hotels in the Axis Hotels group, which in turn is linked to the
Turilima group.
4:17 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– view of beach from upper balcony of our room.
4:17 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– view from upper balcony of our room of swimming pools (warm water) and paved
terrace in front of our lower balcony.
4:19 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– our master bedroom (upper/entry floor) and MT’s head going down stairway to
lower level.
4:19 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– our master bedroom (upper/entry floor), view toward entry door and MT’s head coming
back up stairway to lower level.
4:19 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– top of staircase and master bedroom above.
4:20 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– bottom of staircase and twin bed downstairs, with large table and mirror.
4:20 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– second twin bed downstairs, around stairway partition, and door to second
bathroom (photo taken in another round mirror).
4:23 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– MT on upper-level balcony (Don took photo from lower balcony).
MT 4:29 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – Don waving from by lower balcony with paved terrace behind him (MT took photo from
upper balcony).
4:23 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– lower-level balcony (with chairs and table, like upper balcony).
Then
we walked past the hotel pools down to the beach.
Since the hotel was right on the beach, along the Coastal Route, we did not go
into the city.
5:37 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– MT on beach.
MT 5:45 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel Don and MT on beach (still overcast).
MT 5:45 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – selfie of Don and MT on beach with our hotel in background.
5:42 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– beach (still overcast).
5:42 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– our hotel from beach (still overcast).
5:42 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
– beach with seaweed and other hotels (still overcast).
MT 5:53 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – Don wading at edge of water.
MT 5:53 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – Don notices tide coming in.
MT 5:53 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – Don getting splashed by tide.
MT 5:53 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – Don after tide went out, leaving seaweed on sand.
MT 5:54 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – MT wading at edge of water, waiting for tide.
MT 5:54 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – MT starting to get wet, but wave hasn’t come in yet.
MT 5:55 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – MT getting splashed by tide.
MT 5:55 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – MT back on sand.
MT 5:55 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – MT back on sand.
MT 5:55 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – MT back on sand.
MT 5:53-5:55 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis
Vermar Hotel – collage of MT and Don in surf.
MT 7:11 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar
Hotel – beach from our hotel room.
9:02 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
–mussel shells Don picked up on beach.
9:02 PM – Póvoa de Varzim: Axis Vermar Hotel
–Common Limpet (patella vulgata) and Black-Footed aka Depressed Limpet (patella
depressa) shells Don picked up on beach.
We
went to the buffet dinner at Axis Vermar
Hotel around 7:45. We had to pay €4.50 for 0.5 liter red wine.
#/media/File:Capela_da_Boa_Nova_-_Le%C3%A7a_da_Palmeira,_Portugal.jpg){kind=link}
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