This post is based primarily on
Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our Camino in 2016.
When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers
or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany
this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was
taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of
the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain
Wikimedia Commons) indicate that source in the caption.
We
woke at 7:15 am. At 8 am, we went to the buffet breakfast with champagne in Hotel Meira.
We
departed sometime between 8:45 and 9:15.
We
started on the seaside promenade in Vila
Praia de Âncora and followed the paved path for some time, until it gave
way to a forest path.
Sunday, September 18, 2016, 9:14 AM – Vila Praia de Âncora: seagulls and
early swimmers on beach and marina inside seawall in morning.
9:14 AM – Vila Praia de Âncora: boats in
marina inside seawall (mild telephoto 64 mm).
9:15 AM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Forte de
Lagarteira fortress, in morning sun, from seaside promenade, with few boats on
right (mild telephoto 54 mm).
9:17 AM – Vila Praia de Âncora: other side of
Forte de Lagarteira fortress, with entrance gate, from seaside promenade.
9:17 AM (Cropped) – Vila Praia de Âncora: Forte
de Lagarteira fortress entrance gate.
The entrance gate of Forte de Lagarteira has the royal coat
of arms inscribed in stone. (See more photos and information on this fortress
in the blog for September 17.)
9:18 AM – Vila Praia de Âncora: that side of
Forte de Lagarteira fortress, with entrance gate, from a different angle from seaside
promenade.
9:18 AM – Vila Praia de Âncora: MT on start
of paved yellow biking/walking path, approaching typical flat-roofed restaurant
or café by seaside promenade.
9:43 AM – Vila Praia de Âncora: more of paved
yellow walking path, along coast, with mountain (probably Monte de Santa Tecla,
aka Monte Santa Trega in the Galego language of Galicia, near the town of A Guarda
in Spain) in distance.
At
the Praia de Moledo, we stopped
(10:10-10:25) at two different bars for the banho
and got carimbo stamps at one.
NOTE: Some sources call this
Praia do Moledo.
10:12 AM – Praia de Moledo: more of paved
yellow walking path (far right), along beach, with island fortress and conical
mountain (probably Monte de Santa Tecla, aka Monte Santa Trega in the Galego
language of Galicia), near the town of A Guarda in Spain, in distance.
From
the Praia de Moledo, we could see a fortress on an island. Since we could also
see a mountain across the Minho in Spain, we originally thought we were seeing
the Forte de Santa Cruz (Fort of the Holy Cross), defending the mouth of the
Minho from the Spanish side, near the town of A Guarda. However, this turned
out to be the Forte da Ínsua.
10:12 AM – Praia de Moledo: view of Forte da
Ínsua (telephoto 360 mm).
The Forte da Ínsua (Fort of the Island) is located on the Ínsua de São
Isidro (Island of St. Isadore), a small, rocky island, about 200 m from the
seacoast, south of the mouth of the Rio Minho. It is in the freguesia (civil parish) of Moledo and
close to the village of Moledo.
In ancient times this island held a pagan temple to Saturn, and then a
hermitage dedicated to Santa María (St. Mary). In 1392, Franciscan friars from
Galicia built a monastery on the island. The first fortification on this site,
erected at the direction of King João I of Portugal (ruled 1385-1433), would
date from that period, with the function of protecting the bar of that river
and the friars against pirates and foreign intruders. However, nothing remains
of this first fortification. In 1471, the monastery was remodeled. In 1502,
King Manuel I (ruled 1495-1521), when on a pilgrimage to Santiago de
Compostela, visited the monastery of Ínsua and ordered new work to rebuild and
expand this defensive fortress, which was completed in 1512. Likewise, King
Philip I (1580-1598) directed more work to improve the effectiveness of the
artillery, which was imperative for facing the attacks of English and French
corsairs. None of these structures still exists today.
The current star-shaped fortress with
5 bastions dates back to the time of the War of Restoration (1640-1668), during
the reign of King João IV (1640-1656). This was part of a great reform of the
coastal fortresses and according to the need to improve the defense of the
Minho, which formed the border with Spain. It was built between 1649 and 1652,
and then enlarged in 1676. In the 18th century, the fort and the monastery were
restored several times. In 1765, the fortress was garrisoned by 10 men and
arrayed with 7 bronze artillery pieces. During the Peninsular War (1808-1814),
the island was occupied by Napoleon’s French troops and also by Spanish troops.
With the extinction of religious orders in Portugal in 1834, the religious
community abandoned the island, and the fort was occupied exclusively by the
Portuguese Army. The last governor of the fort was named in 1909. It was
classified as a National Monument in 1910.
On the northwest bastion of the
fort is the Farolim da Ínsua
(Lighthouse of Ínsua), established in 1886. The lighthouse consists of a
quadrangular ground-floor building, atop which is a white metallic column with
a spiral staircase.
10:15 AM – Praia de Moledo: sign for Praia de
Moledo with coat of arms of municipality of Caminha; Forte da Ínsua and
mountain across the Minho in Spain.
After
Praia de Moledo, there was a forest path without any arrows; however, there
were sometimes red-and-white-striped GR route markings, and lots of other
people, mostly not pilgrims.
10:33 AM – After Praia de Moledo: dirt path
through pine forest.
Then
we came to Praia Foz do Minho (Beach
of the Mouth of the Minho).
10:52 AM – Praia Foz do Minho: sign for that
beach, with coat of arms of municipality of Caminha.
10:55 AM – Praia Foz do Minho: boats on rocky
shore by boardwalk (town around curve of shore is probably Caminha).
When
we arrived at the coast on the edge of Caminha,
we could see that there had been a boardwalk along the shore for some distance
back in the direction from which we had come.
Caminha is a vila (town, pop. 2,500) in the
municipality of the same name (pop. 16,684) in the District of Viana do
Castelo. It is located 21 km north from the city of Viana do Castelo and 2 km
from the Atlantic Ocean, on the south side of the Minho estuary, where the
river is met by the smaller Rio Coura. Here, the Minho reaches its widest
point, about 2 km.
A small island at the confluence
of the Minho and Coura, now connected to the mainland, was the site of a small
Roman settlement called Camenae or Camina during the period of the Sueve
(Swabian) domination in the 5th century. The area was depopulated due to Arab
and Norman raids, and slowly reoccupied after the 10th century. Around 1060,
Caminha was briefly a condado (county,
ruled by a count [conde]) called
“Caput Mini” (Head of the Minho), and a castle existed in the area.
In the 13th century, Caminha was
just a fishing village, until King Afonso III decided to build a modern castle
and a fortified village, finished in 1260. At that time, the region was of
great military importance, since it was located at the border with Galicia. The
castle was later reinforced by Kings Dinis I, when reclaimed land finally connected
the original island to the shore, and Ferdinand I. Although most of the walls
and towers were torn down or built over, the oval shape of the castle is still
clearly visible in the design of some streets. (The oval configuration of the
old wall follows the pattern of Roman fortresses of the 4th and 5th centuries.)
The tower of the keep is still intact and serves as entrance to the historical
center of the town.
The first foral (royal charter) dates from 1284. Caminha belonged directly to
the crown until the municipality of Caminha was established in 1371. In 1390,
King João I granted the town much freedom, leading maritime commerce to
flourish. In the 15th and 16th centuries, it became one of the main ports in
Northern Portugal, trading extensively with Northern Europe, Africa, and India.
A witness of this golden age is the Igreja Matriz (Mother Church), built
between the 15th and 16th centuries in an exuberant late Gothic-Renaissance
mixed style. King Manuel I granted Caminha a new foral in 1512.
After Portugal regained its
independence from Spain in 1640, King João IV remodeled the fortifications of
Caminha following modern ballistic advances. The Forte da Ínsua was also
remodeled. Together with the fortifications of Viana do Castelo, Valença, and
Monção, the castle of Caminha was part of the defensive line against the
Castilians to the north.
Caminha: coat of arms of
the municipality
The coat of arms of the Municipality of Caminha is a shield prominently
featuring a castle (3 towers, of which the one in the center is the current
Torre do Relógio), below which are blue and white wavy lines (representing the
Rio Minho). Over the shield is a silver crown with four towers.
10:55 AM – Praia Foz do Minho: boardwalk
along shore of Minho.
11:16 AM – After Praia Foz do Minho: cobblestone
walk between shore of Minho and street.
As
previously mentioned, Don had printed out a detailed map of Caminha showing the
Camino route entering the town from the south on the Rua Visconde Sousa Rego
street, which would lead to the Turismo office and the famous Clock Tower,
after which the Rua Direita would lead toward the Ferry Station, at which point
the main Coastal Route would cross the Minho on the ferry and our alternate
route would branch off to the northeast along the Minho. Don had added (by
hand) names of streets and landmarks to that map to help us navigate through
the town. However, since we entered the town on the boardwalk along the shore
of the river, we actually skirted the town and its historical center, which we viewed
only from outside the old town wall.
On
the way to the Ferry Station, we passed two medieval towers. The first one had
a clock, and turned out to be the famous Torre
do Relógio (Clock Tower).
11:24 AM – Caminha: Clock Tower with clock
and bell on top (telephoto 360 mm).
The Torre do Relógio (Clock Tower) was part of the town walls, built in
the 12th century; it is the only one of the three original towers that still
exists in its entirety. It was the most robust of the three and also served as
the castle keep. The quadrangular tower consists of two floors. Facing south,
the gate in this tower was called the Porte de Viana, since it led toward Viana
do Castelo; it was the main access to the town. The bell housed in the pyramid
at the top of the tower was cast in 1610. After the Restoration (of Portuguese
independence from Spain in 1668), King João IV had a stone statue of the Virgin
of the Conception placed over the gate. In 1673, a public clock was added to
this tower, and it became known as the Clock Tower. Today, its gate leads to
the historic center of the town. It was classified as a National Monument in
1951.
Caminha: Clock Tower
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caminha#/media/File:Torre_do_Relogio_-_Caminha.JPG by Joseolgon -
Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, at https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=26054167).
The
second tower was the bell tower of the Igreja
Paroquial de Caminha, although our view of the church was obscured by part
of the old town wall.
11:29 AM – Caminha: Igreja Paroquial de
Caminha with bell tower (mild telephoto 76 mm).
The Igreja Parousia de Caminha (Parish Church of Caminha), also known
as the Igreja Matriz (Mother Church) or Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Asuncião
(Church of Our Lady of the Assumption), was constructed in two phases, the
first one begun 1428 and the second in 1488. Work proceeded slowly and was
completed in 1556 with the tower of the main façade. For this reason, the
church features a complex combination of different styles and influences: it
illustrates the transition from late Gothic to Renaissance architecture in
Portugal, with Manueline influence. The building has three naves, the central
one higher, which is frequent in Gothic churches of Northern Portugal, although
incorporating elements of Manueline and Renaissance. Manueline and Plateresque
elements predominate in the structure and external decoration of the apse. Both
portals are Renaissance, The main portal, on the west and quite eroded, is
topped with a rose window. The outstanding alfarge
wood ceiling covering all three naves of the interior also shows Moorish
influences (Mudéjar style); it was completed in 1565. A storm in 1636 destroyed
part of the bell tower, and the church was bombed by the Spanish during the
Restoration War (1640-1668). However, the building was drastically restored
during the 1930s. It was classified as a National Monument in 1910.
Caminha: Igreja Paroquial
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caminha#/media/File:Igreja_Matriz_de_Caminha.jpg by João Sousa -
Own work, GFDL, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3822733).
11:31 AM – Caminha: Igreja Paroquial behind
fortified wall (blue sign in right foreground).
The oldest walls of Caminha date back to the 13th century, during the reign of
King Afonso III. In the 14th century, King João I gave the fortress a second
wall line. However, it was in the 17th century, following the Wars of
Restoration, that the ramparts and towers of the fortress were built. The walls
that remain are partly medieval and partly 17th-century.
11:33 AM – Caminha: blue sign by fortified
wall for “Caminha” (with map of that town in top section); band in middle says
“Vila Nova de Âncora” (for the map below it) (telephoto 260 mm).
11:32 AM – Caminha: Igreja Paroquial behind another
part of fortified wall, with round guardhouse on near corner of wall.
We followed the boardwalk along the Minho
(with Spain on the other side) and then a paved walkway all the way to the Ferry Station, where we got a carimbo stamp that had the words “Cámara
Municipal de Caminha”. While Don visited the banho in the ferry station, and the lady at the ticket counter gave
MT a free bottle of water.
Caminha: carimbo stamp from “Cámara Municipal de Caminha” (Municipal Hall of
Caminha) surrounding a picture of the three towers featured on the
municipality’s coat of arms.
Then,
rather than taking the ferry over the
Minho into Spain, we turned right and went across the Ponte Sobre o Rio Coura (Bridge over the River Coura) on highway
N13, remaining in Portugal. On the bridge, we met two ladies from South Africa that
we had seen earlier on the Coastal Route.
11:44 AM – After Caminha: MT and 2 South
African ladies on highway bridge.
We
soon found the first of many very clear yellow arrows and did not have much
trouble following the arrows and street names from the Freixo maps.
Shortly
after the bridge, the Camino route veered right off the N13 just before a small
chapel and a sign for entering the frequesia
of Seixas.
11:52 AM – Seixas: sign for entering “Seixas”
and coat of arms of “Seixas-Caminha” and small chapel.
MT 11:59 (11:52) AM – Seixas: Don with sign for
entering “Seixas” and coat of arms of “Seixas-Caminha.”
Seixas is a village in
a freguesia (civil parish, pop. 1,502)
of the same name in the Municipality of Caminha. It is approximately 2 km from
the town of Caminha, on the other side of the Rio Coura. It is located at the
confluence of the Rio Minho and Rio Coura. The patron saint of the parish is
São Pedro (St. Peter), and the patriarch St. Benedict, protector of fishermen,
is also highly revered.
Human occupation of this site
goes back to the Neolithic period. Among the place names in the civil parish is
Crasto, which indicated the existence of a Celtic settlement. Seixas first
appears in documents in 1071. In 1156, the paróquia
(religious parish) of Seixas is mentioned as belonging to the Bishopric of Tui.
The civil parish of Seixas is said to have received its first foral (charter) from Dom Afonso Henriques, although it was
destroyed in a fire; it received a new charter from King Afonso III in 1262.
The origin of the name Seixas is
not well defined. In ancient Portuguese, seixas
meant pigeon. However, the name of the parish probably does not come from that,
but rather from “seixas,” a species of large crabs that are fished for in this
locality.
The coat of arms of the freguesia has neither pigeon nor crab.
Coat of arms of
Seixas-Caminha
The coat of arms of the Freguesia
de Seixas is a green shield with a sheaf of golden rye bound in a silver
ribbon; above that are two keys facing upward with a ribbon passing through
them (the key on the right is gold and the one on the left is silver); at the bottom
of the shield are three wavy lines of silver and blue, with two golden fish in
the blue part. Above the shield is a silver crown of a wall with three towers.
Below the shield is a banner with the caption “Seixas-Caminha.”
12:24 PM – Seixas: brick hórreo and MT on street leading first to Capela de São Bento and
then to Igreja Paroquial de Seixas.
We
went through the village of Seixas
(a long, strung-out town), seeing the Capela
de São Bento (Chapel of St. Benedict) and the Igreja Paroquial de Seixas (Parish Church of Seixas), where we
almost made the mistake of continuing along the N13 highway, but then Don
noticed that the Freixo map said to veer off right just before the church.
12:24 PM – Seixas: Capela de São Bento –
façade and right side.
The Capela de São Bento (Chapel of St. Benedict) is located on the
right side of the N13 highway in the direction from Caminha to Seixas. This
unusual chapel, of great proportions, has a history based on the friars of the
Knights Templar, going back to the Middle Ages, when they settled in Seixas to
build a church dedicated to St. Benedict. This church received royal benefits
in the 15th and 16th centuries. In 1848, Queen María instituted the Irmandade
de São Bento (Brotherhood of St. Benedict). Soon thereafter, the Brotherhood
decided to build another church, which currently exists, completed in 1870.
The large church, in Neoclassical
style, has a single nave and a rectangular main chapel (chancel). The façade,
topped with a countercurved gable, is flanked by pilasters topped with
pinnacles. The portal, also with a countercurved pediment, is flanked by two
panels of azulejo tiles portraying
the life of St. Benedict (there are also tile panels in the interior). Above
the portal is a stained glass window of the patron saint that illuminates the
high choir. To the left of the façade, somewhat indented, is the quadrangular
bell tower.
In
front of the Capela de São Bento was the Cruzeiro
de Seixas.
12:25 PM – Seixas: Capela de São Bento – cruzeiro (side of cross with crucifixion
at top) in front of church with bell tower and façade.
The Cruzeiro de Seixas stands atop four hexagonal steps, above which is
a quadrangular block of stone and then a quadrangular plinth with the same
motif on all four sides. The interlaced, spiraling column is topped by a
Corinthian capital from which the cross extends upward. The cross has the image
of the Crucified Christ on one side and that of St. Benedict on the other.
12:25 PM – Seixas: Capela de São Bento – cruzeiro (other side of cross with St.
Benedict at top).
12:25 PM (Cropped) – Seixas: Capela de São
Bento – cruzeiro (other side of cross
with St. Benedict at top). Don first thought this figure was of the Virgin
Mary, as was common on cruzeiros;
however, on closer inspection, the beard and bishop’s crosier agree with a web
site that said it was St. Benedict.
12:34 PM – Seixas: Igreja Paroquial – bell
tower and façade.
The Igreja Paroquial de Seixas (Parish Church of Seixas), also known as
Igreja Matriz de Seixas (Mother Church of Seixas), is in the Paróquia de Seixas
(São Pedro). The paróquia (religious
parish) of Seixas was established in 1156; in that same year, it was mentioned as
being as part of the Bishopric of Tui. The present church is from the 19th
century, but retains vestiges of an earlier church.
12:35 PM – Seixas: Igreja Paroquial – cruzeiro to side of bell tower and
façade.
From
there, we followed a winding route, going under the N13, on a street called
“Calçada do Tunel” (Street of the Tunnel), and onto Rua de Bolheira, which
looped toward the river. On that street, we came to the Cruzeiro de São Sebastião (Cross of St. Sebastian), in front of the
Capela de São Sebastião (Chapel of St.
Sebastian) near the village of São
Sebastião in the Freguesia de Seixas.
12:51 PM – After Seixas: Cruzeiro de São
Sebastião, with statue of St. Sebastian on side of column, with large house in
background.
12:51 PM – After Seixas: Capela de São
Sebastião, with pink Camino path continuing to right.
After
the Capela de São Sebastião, we found a sign for the “Caminho do Minho,” which had a paved pink path.
12:56 PM – After Seixas: sign for “Caminho
Rio Minho” (Minho River Walkway) and “Ecovía Caminha” (Eco-Walk Caminha), with
coat of arms of Municipality of Caminha and map of the route (in yellow,
identified as “Traçado da Ecovía” [Trace of the Eco-Walk]) between the estuary
of the Rio Minho and the N13 highway (in gray, indicating that the route would
shortly join the N13 and follow it until crossing over the railway near a train
station at Esqueiro and then go back to the shoreline); the dotted black line
is for the railway; the red “You are here” marker identifies this place as
Picnic Zone, after passing the Capela de São Sebastião. At lower right are
circular photos of “Flora and Fauna that can be seen in Rio Minho banks.”
The Ecovia de Rio Minho (Eco-Walk of the River Minho) is a paved pink
path along the waterfront with a wide view of the estuary, designed to help you
meet the local people and observe the diversity of species that exist along the
route.
From
there, the winding route went back under the N13 again through a tunnel.
12:58 PM – After Seixas: MT on pink Camino
path.
The
paved pink path led us all the way to Lanhelas,
where we saw the old railway station marked “Estación” on the Freixo map and
with the name of the town “Lanhelas” on it.
1:05 PM – Lanhelas: old railway station.
Lanhelas is a village in
a freguesia (civil parish, pop. 1,082)
of the same name, the northernmost freguesia
in the Municipality of Caminha. By the middle of the 13th century, Lanhelas was
already a civil parish, governed by the court of Cerveira. By the early 16th
century, it was incorporated into the Municipality of Caminha. In the late 16th
century, it was annexed to Seixas. In 1839, Lanhelas belonged to the region of
Monção, in 1852 to Viana do Castelo, and in 1878, again to Caminha.
From
there, MT wanted to just stay on the N13 all the way to Vila Nova de Cerveira.
(Shortly after Caminha, we had seen a highway sign saying 11 km to Vila Nova de
Cerveira, but our Freixo map said it was 15 km by the Camino route.) However,
Don asked if we were doing the highway walk or the Camino walk. He then walked
across the intersection with N13 and found a street sign for Rua da Estación,
which led us to the Calle do Roncal (aka Rua do Roncal), a street that was
shown on the Freixo map as being on the Camino route. So we continued in that
direction.
1:18 PM – Lanhelas: yellow arrow on utility
pole; the concrete block in background has a small sign for the street, Rua do
Roncal, with the coat of arms of the Freguesia de Lanhelas.
1:21 PM – Lanhelas: brick hórreo and satellite dish (mild
telephoto 76 mm).
1:23 PM – Lanhelas: another hórreo, the first one we had seen with
finials on the roof, a cross at one end and a pinnacle at the other (telephoto
133 mm).
We
passed the Capela de Marrocos (Chapel of the Moroccans) and Capela de San
Antonio (Chapel of St. Anthony), and when we came to another small chapel,
another Capela de São Sebastião, we
saw that there was a wake going on inside it.
1:29 PM – Lanhelas: MT approaching Capela de
São Sebastião – façade and right side with small statue of Virgin Mary in
niche; across the village square behind this chapel is the larger church,
Igreja Matriz.
The Capela de São Sebastião (Chapel of St. Sebastian) is a simple
chapel located on the village square in the center of the village of Lanhelas.
Its construction is often associated with the promise of the residents
following a deadly plague in the early 17th century.
1:31 PM – Lanhelas: Igreja Matriz – bell tower
and façade covered with blue and white azulejo
tiles; on the hill behind the church, to the right, is the Cruzeiro da
Independéncia.
The Igreja Matriz (Mother Church) of Lanhelas is described as “a
beautiful piece of popular architecture, emphasizing the proportionality of
volumes and the refinement of granite forms, moreover well expressed in the
other religious monuments of the parish.” It is located on the village square
of Lanhelas, on the border with the village of Anta and in the heart of the
parish. It dates from the 19th century. However, there are traces of an earlier
structure dating from the 17th century that probably formed the nucleus of the
current building.
1:31 PM (Cropped) – Lanhelas: Igreja Matriz –
Cruzeiro da Independéncia on the hill behind Igreja Matriz.
The Cruzeiro da Independéncia (Cross of Independence), built in 1940,
is undoubtedly the most important of the cruzeiros
found in the parish, both for its gigantic size and its meaning for all
residents of Lanhelas. It is a monument commemorating the Wars of Independence.
In reference to the parish of Lanhelas, it celebrates the date of April 23,
1644, when the inhabitants of Lanhelas fought valiantly against the attack of a
Spanish military force and prevented the advance of the Spaniards into
Portuguese lands. In addition, the Cruzeiro da Independéncia is also associated
with other significant dates, namely 1140/1640 and 1940. The large cross is on
a circular base, since it was built on an old windmill. Located at the top of
the Outeiro d’Antas (Hill of Antas), it offers a superb panoramic view over the
estuary of the Minho.
1:31 PM – Lanhelas: sign in front of
Restaurante Adega.
Just
across the street, Rua São João de Sá, from the Igreja Matriz, we saw the Restaurante Adega (adega means wine cellar), a very small restaurant run by a father
and son (the son spoke English and said he was in the 11th grade), with a cook
in the back. We had talked about stopping for lunch and making that our big
meal of the day, if we found a good restaurant along the way, rather than
having a late dinner in Vila Nova de Cerveira, which was still 7 km away. We
both ordered bacalhao no forno (cod
in the oven) at €16 each; a bottle of Godiva red wine (€10), and each had a
0.5-liter bottle of water (€1.50 each). The waiter (son) brought us entradas (starters) of olives (in oil
with orange), cottage cheese (again with orange); bread, homemade butter; and a
deep-fried local specialty of cheese and spices (€3). We added a mixed salad at
the end (€2.50), for a total of €50.50 with IVA (value added) tax. He first ran
our credit card for €53.50, but we discovered he had not seen the label on the
wine bottle and had charged €13. He said he corrected it, and Don signed for
€50.50.
1:32 PM – Lanhelas: menu for Restaurante Adega
(in Portuguese, English, and Spanish); we ordered the “Bacalhao no Forno – Cod
in the Oven – Bacalao en el horno” listed under Peixes (Fish).
2:07 PM – Lanhelas: Restaurante Adega –
serving platter for bacalhao with
potatoes and onions and cabbage on side.
2:09 PM – Lanhelas: Restaurante Adega – Don’s
plate with bacalhao with potatoes,
onions, and cabbage.
2:54 PM – Lanhelas: Restaurante Adega – son
and father.
During
our lunch, we heard church bells ringing for the funeral, and we saw men in
blue-and-white capes walking by on the way to the funeral in the Igreja Matriz.
We
left the restaurant and started to walk, but MT right away said she felt
“strange” (perhaps from the wine?) and didn’t think she could keep walking. We
went back to the restaurant and asked if they could call us a taxi, but the son
said taxis didn’t work on Sunday. However, he said there would be a train at
4:50 pm from a nearby station (not the old one we had seen), and he walked with
us to that station, called Esqueiro, where we would just wait in a small
building by the tracks; he said the train always stopped there, we could buy
tickets onboard, and there would be a discount for being over 65.
As
we were leaving the restaurant (the 2nd time) to go to the station, there were
more bells (for the end of the funeral), and we had to wait for a long
procession to pass, led by the men in blue-and-white capes (over ordinary
clothes), followed by a priest, then the hearse and one car (the family), then
many people on foot. We stayed at the door of the restaurant until the
procession had passed.
3:19 PM – Lanhelas: MT at new “Esqueiro” train
station.
MT 3:28 (3:21) PM – Lanhelas: Don reading
train schedule at new “Esqueiro” train station.
While
waiting (over an hour and a half), Don checked the schedule posted in the small
building and found that the trip would only last 4:50-4:57; the posted price
list said the fare was €1.40 each and that youth under 23 got a 25 % discount.
3:49 PM – Lanhelas: “Esqueiro” train station
and tracks in direction from which train would come.
3:53 PM – Lanhelas: looking ahead past “Esqueiro”
train station to where there was an hórreo
by the tracks in the distance.
3:48 PM – Lanhelas: wooden hórreo by tracks past “Esqueiro” train
station (telephoto 360 mm).
3:53 PM – Lanhelas: “Esqueiro” train station
looking ahead on tracks, with Rio Minho nearby on left.
The
train arrived on time (a bell alarm announced its approach). We got on, and
there were two conductor types who sat across the aisle from us but said
nothing about buying tickets until after our intermediate stop (Casa do Povo),
and then charged us only €0.70 each (50 % off).
We
arrived at Vila Nova de Cerveira and
got off by another small building by the tracks, identical to the one where we
got on, except that it said “Cerveira.”
4:51 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: train at
station in “Cerveira” with same type of small building.
4:52 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: main train station
for “Vila Nova – de – Cerveira” across tracks from small building.
MT 4:59 (4:52) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Don
at main train station for “Vila Nova … de … Cerveira” across tracks from small
building.
Vila
Nova de Cerveira
is a town in the freguesia (civil
parish, pop. 1,475) of Vila Nova de Cerveira e Lovelhe, in a municipality of
Vila Nova de Cerveira (pop. 9,253) in the district of Viana do Castelo. It is
located on the left bank of the Rio Minho, between the river and the mountain.
The name of the village is explained by a legend: Once upon a time, there was a
stag (deer) that was chosen by the Gods of Olympus to become a king. And so the
stag decided to move, together with other stags, to this uninhabited territory
that began to be known as “Terras da Cerveira” (Lands of the Stags). Many years
flew past. Fights, skirmishes, and disasters gradually devastated the colony
until only the King Stag was left. According to legend, when the noblemen from
Asturias came down during the Reconquest to conquer what was to become the
Condado Portucalense (County of Portucale), a young nobleman challenged the
King Stag to a face-to-face duel. And the old Lord accepted. The duel took
place among the trees and weeds on a trenched site. And so, the legend tells,
the King Stag swept to victory! He kept the nobleman’s flag that became the
King’s coat of arms. But the Gods deceived the old King. He would no longer be
immortal. Tired of living and ill, the old Lord died in the loneliness of the
crags of the mountain, and with him the Terra da Cerveira disappeared for good.
But the legend was not forgotten, and the coat of arms still bears a golden
stag with silver antlers (between the antlers is a blue gusset with five silver
circles) standing in a green field, beneath a silver crown with four towers.
Another explanation for the name is simply that deer were very abundant in this
area.
Vila Nova de Cerveira: coat
of arms of the municipality
There is no consensus among
scholars about the earliest human occupation of this site. However, its
occupation probably dates back to the Bronze Age. Around the beginning of the
Christian Era, there was a demographic expansion in the territory corresponding
to today’s Municipality of Vila Nova de Cerveira, with the presence of a
multitude of castros (hill
fortresses), already under a strong influence of Romanization. During the
process of the Reconquista
(Reconquest) after the Arab invasions, this area became part of the Condado
Portucalense (County of Portucale) in 1096. During this time, a primitive
castle on the Alto do Crasto hill, north of the present town, was instrumental
in defending against Arab attacks and those of the Normans. A settlement of
Cerveira probably existed from the dawn of Portuguese nationality, in the 12th
century, perhaps as a fortified village due to its border location. In 1188,
King Sancho I donated the village to a local nobleman. However, the earliest written
evidence of a castle was in a document from 1229, which mentions the nobleman
who was the warden of the Castelo de Cerveira, although it is believed that the
“castle” was at that time only a defensive tower. In 1258, King Afonso III of
Portugal (1248-1279) informed the inhabitants of “Cerveira” and neighboring
parishes that they were subject to feudal tribute and that he expected them to
face still frequent incursions from León. In 1297, his successor King Dinis
(1279-1325) signed a treaty with the King of León outlining the border between
the two kingdoms, which again made it necessary to fortify the frontier of the
Rio Minho. The increased geographical and political stability led to a renewed
effort to repopulate the region. In 1317, King Dinis tried to attract settlers
to the small, pre-existing settlement of Cerveira; he gave privileges to anyone
who would come here to live and even offered pardon to anyone who had committed
a crime, even if severe, if they would lead a regimented life here. In 1321, he
granted a foral (royal charter)
giving the settlement the status of vila
(town) as Vila Nova de Cerveira (the Nova indicating that there was an older village).
At that time, its geographical location was extremely important for defending
the riverside passage that leads to the Ribeira Lima region. In 1521, the town
received a Foral Novo (new royal charter) from King Manuel I.
Because
we arrived in Vila Nova de Cerveira by train, we had to find the Pousada de
Juventude (our lodging place) from a different direction than shown on the map
on our lodging voucher. When we got off at the station, we fortunately could
see just to the northwest (toward the river) a sports field in a large park,
the Parque de Lazer de Castelinho, which the voucher map showed very close to
the Pousada de Juventude, to our northeast. We asked some people, and they
showed us that we were very close. A sign across from the station pointed to
it, but that was actually the back side of the building, and we had to go
around, past the BP gas station (shown on the map), to the other side, on the
N13 highway, to enter.
When we checked in to the Pousada de Juventude, we got carimbo stamps.
Vila Nova de Cerveira: large carimbo stamp with “Vila Nova de Cerveira
Portugal” at the top, surrounding the deer logo that is a symbol of the town,
and “Pousada de Juventude Vila Nova de Cerveira Portugal” at the bottom, along
with the tree-and-house logo of the network to which this youth hostel belonged.
The Pousada de Juventude (literally Inn of the Youth) is part of a
network of youth hostels called Pousadas de Juventude. The building is the
result of an architectural project combining a new building with the
refurbishing of an old elementary school, the Escola Primaria Santa Maria dos
Santos (Primary School St. Mary of the Saints).
5:03 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Pousada de Juventude
– front side with the plural “Pousadas de Juventude” and the tree-and-house symbol
for that network; the top of the building still said “Escola Primaria Santa
Maria dos Santos.”
5:39 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Pousada de Juventude
– view from our room toward Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira (mild telephoto 54
mm).
We
went out looking for the Turismo office and the church; both were closed.
However, there was a Festival de Bandas (band festival), which happened to be
going on that day in the main square.
5:43 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: modern metal
sculpture “O Esforço,” with main church, Igreja de São Cipriano (tower and
south side), in background; beyond the church is the main square where the
Festival de Bandas was going on.
The metal sculpture “O Esforço” (The Effort) by José Zé
Rodrigues (1936-2016) is located in the center of the town, in a small,
landscaped park now called “Jardim Mestre Zé Rodrigues” (Garden of Master Zé
Rodrigues), given that name shortly after the sculptor’s death. The iron
sculpture, inaugurated in 1983, consists of a triangular iron structure, a
suspended block of stone, and a fountain. Rodrigues is more famous for another
metal sculpture, “O Cervo” (The Deer) on a hill overlooking the town.
As part of the “O Crochet Sai à
Rua” project in July to September 2016, the thicker leg of the sculpture
featured a crock spilling out a trail of crocheted roses.
In 2016, from July 9 to September
30, Vila Nova de Cerveira observed the 2nd edition of the “O Crochet Sai à Rua”
(The Crochet Goes Out on the Street) project, started in 2014, when the Town
Hall and Tourism Office encouraged residents to knit pieces of crochet to
decorate the streets of the town. Live works are to be seen on the streets of
the historic center and themed pieces scattered throughout the town. One that
stands out is a 6-meter-tall doll adorned in crochet, with dynamic and
interactive profile, on the size of the house where the crochet studio works.
There are also eleven 5-meter-tall deer adorned with crochet, which refer to
each civil parish in the municipality. The Universidade Sénior (Senior
University) was in charge of the decoration of the Town Hall. Throughout town,
windows, doors, balconies, benches, trees, and even trash bins are covered with
crochet.
MT 5:50 (5:43) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira:
modern metal sculpture “O Esforço” – side with crocheted roses flowing down
into garden.
5:43 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Paços do
Concelho, with strange bicycle decoration and flowers added to bottom of
balcony above door.
The current Paços do Concelho (Town Hall), also known as the Câmara Municipal
(Municipal Hall), is located on the Largo do Município (Square of the
Municipality) at the entrance to the town. The large rectangular building has
two floors and is divided horizontally into three panels. It has six uniform,
rectangular windows in each side panel; the upper ones have iron balconies. The
center panel contains the entrance with a round arch; above the entrance is a
larger iron balcony covering two windows surmounted by a triangular pediment.
This façade is crowned by an arched gable with the coat of arms of Portugal
engraved on it and flanked by pinnacles.
As part of the “O Crochet
Sai à Rua” (The Crochet Goes Out on the Street) project, the Universidade
Sénior (Senior University) was in charge of the decoration of the Town Hall.
The 2-meter-tall centerpiece depicts life-size figures of ET and Elliot, from
the movie “ET the Extraterrestrial,” on a flying bicycle with the moon in the
background. The flowers on the balcony are also made of crochet. On the ground
in front of the door is one of the eleven 5-meter-tall deer adorned with
crochet for the project.
5:43 PM (Cropped) – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Paços
do Concelho, with ET and Elliot and flowers on bottom of balcony, all made of
crochet.
We
walked all around the Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira to find a way
into it, without success.
5:50 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de
Vila Nova de Cerveira – approaching cobblestone walkway around the outside of
the castle wall; Igreja da Misericórdia visible over top of wall.
MT 6:04 (5:57) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo
de Vila Nova de Cerveira – view of Rio Minho from cobblestone walkway around
the outside of the castle wall.
MT 6:05 (5:58) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo
de Vila Nova de Cerveira – Don on cobblestone walkway around the outside of the
castle wall by Rio Minho.
Then
we headed back toward the main square to see the Festival das Bandas. On the
way, we passed through streets decorated with balloons, lines of crochet over
the streets, and a strange deer sculpture covered with crochet. At that time we
didn’t know what this decoration was for, but it was part of the “O Crochet
Sai à Rua” project.
6:02 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: street
decorated with balloons and crochet, leading from Castelo back toward Igreja de
São Cipriano (barely visible at end of street) on main square.
6:26 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: MT with crochet-covered
deer sculpture in street decorated with balloons and crochet; at end of street
is Igreja de São Cipriano and main square.
6:27 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: main square
Largo do Terreiro da Liberdade with more crochet and Igreja de São Cipriano (towers
and façade); hill in background is Alto do Crasto with “O Cervo” sculpture.
The Igreja de São Cipriano (Church of St. Ciprian), also known as
Igreja Matriz (Mother Church) or Igreja Paroquial (Parish Church), is dedicated
to São Cipriano (St. Ciprian), the patron saint of Vila Nova de Cerveira. The
church has three naves and a main chapel (chancel). It has an imposing Baroque
façade with a countercurved pediment and bordered by stone pilasters that are
topped with pinnacles. Above the main portal is a royal coat of arms surmounted
by a crown. The façade is flanked by two bell towers, slightly recessed. This
church is of 16th-century origin and was renovated in the 18th century. It was
rebuilt in 1881, after almost all of it was severely damaged by a thunderstorm
in 1877. It is located on the Praça (Terreiro) da Liberdade, the main square of
the town.
Vila Nova de Cerveira: Igreja
de São Cipriano
5:44 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: sign for “Igreja
de S. Cipriano Sec XVI (S. Cipriano’s Church 16th Century)” with text in
Portuguese and English; English text [edited per Portuguese]:
“The
upper end [Portuguese: apse] of the church, dated back to the 16th century, is
the only part of the building that survived a strong storm in 1877. The body of
the church, which was promptly reconstructed, has characteristics of both the
baroque and neoclassical styles.
“Of
particular interest is the main altar due to its quality and beauty. The
woodcarving, in national style, displays the images of the Adoration of the
Wise Kings and the Scene of the Last Judgment.”
6:27 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Alto do
Crasto with “O Cervo” sculpture (telephoto 360 mm).
The iron sculpture “O Cervo” (The Deer) by José Rodrigues is
of the Rei Cervo (King Stag), the symbol of the town and after which the town
was supposedly named. The sculpture, inaugurated in 1985, is located by a miradouro (scenic overlook) on top of a
hill called Alto do Crasto (Height
of Crasto) or Monte do Crasto (Mount of Crasto), which is considered the
“birthplace of Cerveira.” It is the highest hill in the Municipality, in the
Serra da Gávea range.
Vila Nova de Cerveira: “O
Cervo” sculpture
6:30 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: band playing
in square with people watching (mild telephoto 64 mm).
The XI Festival de Bandas de Música (9th Festival of Musical Bands) was
held on Sunday, September 18, 2016 in the historic center of Vila Nova de
Cerveira. It featured five marching bands from Northern Portugal and
neighboring Galicia in Spain. After a parade in the morning, the bands gathered
in the Largo do Terreiro da Liberdade (Square of the Yard of Liberty) for a
great concert from 3 to 7 pm.
6:31 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Largo do
Terreiro da Liberdade - another strange figure on building behind band
(telephoto 112 mm).
Another part of the “O Crochet
Sai à Rua” (The Crochet Goes Out on the Street) project [see note above] is
a 6-meter-tall doll adorned in crochet, with dynamic and interactive profile,
on the side of the house where the crochet studio works.
While
taking photos of the bands in the main square, Largo do Terreiro da Liberdade,
Don noticed that behind them was the entrance to the Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira, which we were able to just walk
in with no admission charge.
6:33 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: main square
with bands and spectators; on other side of square is the strange 6-m figure on
building and also a portal that led into the Castelo inside the walls.
The Porta da Vila (Door of the Town) with an ogival arch, surmounted by
the coat of arms of King Dinis, leading out of the Castelo to the south, leads
to the Terreiro square. The elegant door of the barbican (fortified gateway) has
offset layers hinting at various alterations over the centuries. The entrance
to the Castelo is through a double door: one with an ogival arch in the wall
between the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Ajuda and the tower, with vestiges of an
old balcony above the inside of the arch; the second is in the aforementioned
tower with a rounded arch topped with a balcony and a coat of arms. The
barbican dates back to the late 14th or early 15th century; the coat of arms
above the door precedes 1436, when the coat of arms of Portugal was reformed.
The Porta da Vila and the
barbican are integrated into the rectangular body of the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Ajuda (Chapel of Our Lady of Help),
which is located above them. The small chapel dates from around 1650, with
period architecture, a Baroque altar with gilded carving, a coffered ceiling
with allegorical paintings alluding to the Patroness, and walls lined with azulejo tiles from the end of the 17th
century.
6:34 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: close-up of portal
that led into the Castelo inside the walls, over bands in square (mild
telephoto 64 mm).
6:38 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: MT
approaching Porta da Vila gateway leading from main square into the Castelo; there
is an older-looking ogival archway behind the rounded arch of the barbican; to
the right of the gate is a sign that confirmed this was an entrance to the
Castelo.
Around the time he granted the
town the status of vila in 1321, King
Dinis, in order to protect the “New Town,” also ordered the construction of the
Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira
(Castle of Vila Nova de Cerveira), which still dominates the town center. He
also sent a hundred soldiers to reinforce the repopulation of this border land
on the banks of the Minho. The oval-shaped fortress, typical of the Gothic
style, had eight square towers, of which five are on the south wall, which was
easier to attack; however, it underwent some changes in the late 15th century. Following
successful resistance to a siege by Spanish troops in 1643, improvements to the
castle between 1660 and 1665 included construction of five protruding ramparts,
adapted for artillery fire, complemented by intermediate walls and moats
covering the urban perimeter. The new gates of the village date from this
period: the Porta do Rio (Port of the River, to the west), the Porta de Trás da
Igreja (Door Behind the Church, to the east), the Porta da Campanha (Door of
the Campaign, to the north), and the Porta Nova (New Gate, the exit to Gondarém,
to the south). The Capela de Nossa Senhora da Ajuda (Chapel of Our Lady of
Help) was erected around 1650 inside the castle by the main gate (Porta da
Vila) and barbican. During the last quarter of the 19th century, the growth of
the town led to the dismantling of much of its 17th-century defenses. One of the
most significant losses was the Torre de Menagem (Keep), partially destroyed
(1844), which was followed by the north wall, with the disappearance of the Porta
de Traição (Door of Betrayal), one of the original elements of the castle of
King Dinis. The destruction of the second line of walls began in 1845, and the
moats were filled up in 1905. The Castle was classified as a National Monument
in 1974. In 1982, part of the castle was transformed into a pousada (inn), the Pousada Dom Dinis,
integrated into the Pousadas de Portugal network until its deactivation in 2008.
(In 2017, 9 years after abandonment of the inn, the key of the Castle was
transferred to the Town Hall, which intended to return the Castle to tourist
use.)
Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo
de Vila Nova de Cerveira viewed from Monte do Espirito Santo, with Igreja de
São Cipriano and Terreiro square in foreground and Rio Minho behind
The Castle lies on a small hill
next to the Rio Minho, thus overlooking the town and the passages between the
town and the region of Galicia in Spain. The outer wall, as well as some of the
gates, are preserved. Inside the wall, are the old Town Hall (Governor’s House),
the old Court, the pelourinho (pillory),
the Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy), old barracks, and warehouses.
Today, the Castle is accessed by two doors: the elegant door of the barbican,
Porta da Vila (Door of the Town) with an ogival arch, surmounted by the coat of
arms of King Dinis, to the south, leading to the Terreiro square; and the Porta
de Traição (Door of Betrayal), now just a simple wicket (a small, narrow door),
to the north, leading to the riverbank. The purpose of the Porta de Traição,
difficult to access and located in a discrete place, was to allow someone to
escape without being seen in case of attacks; the balcony outside this door was
added later, during the Wars of Restoration (1640-1668), and shots fired from
it could reach the Spanish fortress of Goián on the other side of the river.
On the other side of the Rio
Minho (Miño) from Vila Nova de Cerveira, in Galicia, is the Fortaleza de San Lorenzo de Goián
(Fortress of St. Lawrence in Goián, also known as Castelo de Goián. This
star-shaped fortress on the banks of the Rio Miño was built in the 17th century
due to the continuous confrontations between the Spaniards and the Portuguese.
In 1663, the original Fortaleza de Goián was attacked by the invading
Portuguese. In the Treaty of Peace between Spain and Portugal signed in 1668,
both sides agreed to return the captured strongholds. The Spanish Crown then
decided to build a new, smaller fort. Construction of the present Fortaleza de
San Lorenzo began in 1671 and was completed in 1673. Its mission was to protect
the nearby embarcadero (river
landing) and to keep an eye on Vila Nova de Cerveira on the opposite side of
the river.
6:38 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de
Vila Nova de Cerveira - sign at entrance for “Castelo Sec. XIV (Castle 14th
century)” with text in Portuguese and English; English text [edited per
Portuguese]:
“King
D. Dinis ordered this castle to be constructed, and attributed [Portuguese:
coupled with the granting of] the ‘Carta de Foral’ or Foral [Portuguese does
not repeat “or Foral”], with the objective of promoting the settlement and the
defense of the frontier. It is an oval fence, which in architectural terms
finds itself in the transition between the Romanesque and Gothic style. It
suffered many restorations, the biggest being around 1660 and as a result of
the Restoration Wars.”
6:39 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de
Vila Nova de Cerveira – MT by interior, ogival archway past the Porta da Vila.
Internet sites identify this as
“Interior do recinto: porta com resta de um matacães” (Interior of the
enclosure: portal with the remnants of [boulders or bushes].” It is pictured
next to a short quadrangular tower and with projecting stones above it that
could have supported an old balcony.
Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira – interior, ogival
archway past the Porta da Vila
6:40 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de
Vila Nova de Cerveira – Igreja da Misericórdia and part of old wall with bell
gable of older chapel.
6:41 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de Vila
Nova de Cerveira – pillory in front of old Town Hall with crown and coat of
arms over door.
The pelourinho (pillory) is
the symbol of municipal jurisdiction and is located inside the Castle in front
of the Paços do Concelho (Town Hall). The town had received its first foral (royal charter) from King Dinis I
in 1321 and a Foral Novo (new royal charter) from King
Manuel I in 1521, but the pillory was not erected until 1547. Sitting on four
quadrangular steps (or three steps and a broad plinth with beveled edges), is a
slender octagonal shaft surmounted by an ornate parallelepiped capital ornamented
with four coats of arms. The four small escutcheons display the quinas (corners), the heraldic emblem of
the Viscounts of Vila Nova de Cerveira and the royal coat of arms of Portugal
on alternating sides. The capital also bears the date of construction, 1547.
Between the top of the shaft and the capital are four cross-clamping irons with
serpents on the ends. The capital is topped with a conical “hat” with eight faces,
surmounted by a round ball. The whole set is in granite.
The old Paços do Concelho (Town Hall) dates back to the 16th century and is
located inside the Castle. In front of the building is the pelourinho (pillory).
6:42 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de
Vila Nova de Cerveira – view from battlements atop castle wall of old Town
Hall, with top of pillory, and Igreja de Misericórdia; on hill in background is
the “O Cervo” sculpture.
The Igreja da Misericórdia is located inside the walls of the Castelo
de Vila Nova de Cerveira, near the pelourinho
(pillory) and the old Town Hall. It has a single nave and a rectangular main
chapel (chancel), with a subcircular porch attached to the north. It has a
protruding cornice and pilasters at the corners topped with urns, and has crosses
over the gables at the ends of the roof. Its north façade rests on a platform
supported by the castle wall. The main (south) façade has two sections, the one
of the nave where the main portal is flanked by a door with a lower profile and
topped by three windows, and the one for the main chapel, with a small window,
flanked by a bell gable with a curved-arch window and topped by a countercurved
gable. In the staircase for access to the bell tower is an epigraph carved in
rough granite, which reads “CASTRO / PRĂ 1598 and heraldic symbols of the
Castros and Pereiras noble families. The main portal in the south side is
framed by Tuscan pilasters, topped laterally by urns, supporting a curved
pediment interrupted by a royal coat of arms topped by a royal crown; at the
side of this is another, smaller door with a curved arch. The east façade has a
rectangular door and window. The north façade has a rectangular door and
window, under a porch resting on an iron structure and stony pillars. The west
façade has a trifoil window.
The exact date of the founding of
the church is unknown. However, the Santa Casa da Misericórdia (Holy House of
Mercy) associated with it dates back at least to the 16th century. It was the
policy of the Misericórdias to locate as close as possible to the center of
power. The earliest reference to a church was in 1621, when the first altar was
emplaced for the image of the Senhor Ecce-Home (Lord Ecce Homo) “na casa
contigua à Casa da Câmara” (in the house adjoining the Town Hall). Two more
altars were added to the old church in 1627. In 1772, the chapel of Senhor
Ecce-Homo was remodeled, but there was a desire to build a new church. A
contract for construction of the church seen today originated in 1811, and
construction began in 1814. Due to the French invasions, it was not concluded
until 1820. Its highlights are the Neoclassical style and the image of Senhor
Ecce-Homo.
6:42 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de
Vila Nova de Cerveira – MT on battlement near gate toward Rio Minho, with view of
river.
MT 6:49 (6:42) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo
de Vila Nova de Cerveira – view from battlement toward Rio Minho.
MT 6:51 (6:44) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira:
Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira – Don with cannon on battlement.
MT 6:53 (6:46) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira:
Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira – Don and MT selfie on battlement, with view
of Rio Minho.
MT 6:54 (6:47) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira:
Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira – Don and MT selfie on battlement.
6:46 PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira: Castelo de
Vila Nova de Cerveira – photo on sign (behind glass) with satellite view of
town, showing that the castle (at green “Vocé está aqui!” [You are here!]
marker) is still partially surrounded by buildings hugging the outside the wall,
with the castle as a hub.
When
we were walking up around the battlements, Don leaned over an iron railing to
take a photo of something in the courtyard below. Unfortunately, he lost hold
of his camera and didn’t have the safety strap attached to his wrist as usual.
The camera fell into the courtyard below. The telescoping lens was stuck in the
out position, and when Don turned on the power, the screen just showed broken
glass. This was the end for the camera. However, he was able to remove the SD
card and save the photos.
MT 6:56 (6:49) PM – Vila Nova de Cerveira:
Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira – Don in courtyard with broken camera; MT was
still on battlement.
Don’s Kodak camera after fall – lens stuck in out position and scratched on
right side.
Don’s Kodak camera after fall – surface of LED screen scratched.
Don’s Kodak camera after fall – LED screen showing broken glass when power
turned on.
Sometime during the day we got carimbo stamps that read “Cerva Bar.”
Vila Nova de Cerveira: carimbo stamp from “Cerva Bar, María
Conceição Rua, Tlf. 251 794 315, Terreiro | 4920-278 V.N. Cerveira.”
The
crosswalk across N13 with a traffic light was just below our window, and MT
heard the dinging of the signal every time the light changed all night long.
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#/media/File:Cervo.JPG){kind=link}
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