090816 Mealhada to Águeda

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our Camino in 2016. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).

Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons) indicate that source in the caption.

We woke a little before 7 am.

MT read that September 8 was the feast of Mary’s birth and, therefore, the beginning of the new year in the Byzantine church; she said we should drink champagne. (As you will see, that was an ominous prediction.)

We ate breakfast at Quinta dos Três Pinheiros at 8:15 am.

MT Thursday, ‎September ‎08, ‎2016, 7:50 AM – Mealhada: Quinta dos Três Pinheiros – marmelo (quince) jelly at breakfast.

We departed the hotel at 8:55. This was the most pleasant weather we had had yet. Brierley’s guidebook describes this as “Another fairly level stage as the gently undulating terrain follows the path of the Cértima river valley.”

To get back on the Camino route, Brierley’s guidebook said to go “back to the N-1 passing Residencial Oasis and turn right [1.4 km] by restaurant Espelho d’ Agua.” So, we walked back to the corner where we had seen the Camino route turn east, but the restaurant there said only Restaurante Tipico on the awning (not Espelho d’ Agua).

A short distance after that turn, we came to an albergue (hostel) where we tried to get carimbo stamps, but no one was around at that time. As we continued down that street, a gray-haired lady shouted from her upstairs window that the Camino was supposed to turn right at the pink house we had just passed. On our way back to that corner, another lady on a motorbike also pointed for us to turn there.

We passed through the town of Sernadelo.

8:54 AM – After Sernadelo: Camino sign and marker post in eucalyptus woods.

8:54 AM – After Sernadelo: Camino sign in woods for “Caminho de Santiago – Município de Mealhada” saying to have a “Good Trip” in Portuguese, English, and French; the red line on the map traces the route from Adões (where we first entered the south end of the municipality the day before), through Sargento Mor, Santa Luzia, Mala, Lendiosa, and Vimieira, to Mealhada and then to just past Sernadelo, where the circle at the top of the red line is labeled “You Are Here” (in the same 3 languages), at the northern boundary of the municipality (telephoto 54 mm).

NOTE: The map on this sign also shows the boundaries of the frequesias (civil parishes) within the Concelho [Municipality] da Mealhada, which might help explain some of the rather confusing notes on the blog for September 7.

Freguesias of Concelho da Mealhada (and surrounding concelhos in parentheses), following the administrative reorganization of 2013 (https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barcou%C3%A7o#/media/File:FregMLD-Barcou%C3%A7o.svg).

Around 9 am, we came to Alpalhão.

9:03 AM – Alpalhão: church (possibly Igreja de Alpalhão) with both rooster and cross on top of bell tower and cross over façade.

9:03 AM – Alpalhão: MT at place where Camino route turned, per arrow on Camino marker post at left.

Next we came to the city of Anadia (and the adjoining village of Arcos).

NOTE: Because Arcos represents the actual urban area of the municipality of Anadia, it was difficult to tell whether we were in the city of Anadia or in the village of Arcos.

10:13 AM – Anadia: Camino marker post with arrows on both marker post and sign above it pointing toward Arcos; also a spray-painted yellow arrow on fencepost at right.

Anadia is a city in the district of Aveiro, with a population of about 6,000. It is the seat of a municipality (município or concelho) with 29,150 inhabitants, subdivided into 10 freguesias (civil parishes).

Although various civilizations have passed through these lands in the course of its history, it is believed that Romans and Arabs settled here, attracted by the wealth and fertility of the land. Although there may have been organized communities during this period, it was only during the Medieval Age that documentation began to appear. The name of the town appears to refer to Roman settlements, deriving from the expression Illa Nadia, which until about 943 belonged to the agrarian Villa of Arcos. In 1180, Dom Afonso Henriques (King Afonso I) donated these lands to Nuno Guterres, and in the 13th century the village was donated to the Mosteiro de Santa Cruz of Coimbra. In 1338, King Afonso IV donated the lands to the Convento de Santa Clara of Coimbra, and in 1466 King Afonso V donated them to Pedro de Albuquerque. The town received its foral (charter) from King Manuel I in 1514. In 1839, the concelho (municipality) of Anadia was created by the merger of several concelhos. The town was elevated to the status of citadel (city) in 2004.

Located in the Barraza wine-growing region, the wines of Anadia enjoy great prestige throughout the country, especially the sparkling wines.

Arcos was a freguesia (civil parish; pop. 5511) in the concelho (municipality) of Anadia, but that parish was extinguished in 2013 and became part of the new parish of Arcos e Mogofores. Arcos is also the name of a village in that parish; it represents the actual urban area of Anadia.

The earliest known reference to the settlement of Arcos dates back to 943. In documents dating from 1220, the name appears in two forms: Arches and Arcos. The settlement was administratively separated into two different parts, at least until the reforms carried out by King Manuel I in the early 16th century; during his reign, the two parts were rejoined and Anadia received its foral (charter) in 1514. At that time, the initial municipality comprised only the town of Anadia, a part of the parish of Arcos, and the farmland surrounding the village. In 1836, the municipality of Anadia was created, which included the parish of Arcos.

10:24 AM – Arcos (Anadia): MT approaching Igreja de São Paio (with a rooster atop the bell tower).

The Igreja de São Paio (Church of St. Paio), in Arcos (Anadia), is also known as Igreja Matriz de Arcos (Mother Church of Arcos) or Igreja Paroquial de Arcos (Parish Church of Arcos).

The present Baroque structure resulted from two periods of construction—the chancel and nave were begun in 1730; the façade and tower date from the second half of the 18th century, begun in 1770. The quadrangular bell tower to the right of the façade is topped by a small dome and has pinnacles on the corners. Inside, the main altarpiece dates from the 17th to 18th centuries. The main chapel (chancel) is decorated with azulejo tiles, dated 1747, depicting eucharistic scenes. Also worthy of note are some limestone sculptures from the Coimbra workshop, from the second half of the 16th century.

10:24 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Igreja de São Paio.

Shortly after that, still in the town of Arcos (or the city of Anadia), we passed a building marked “Caves Arcos do Rei,” a wine cellar. The front door was open, but dark inside. So we went in and saw a sign saying “Escritório 1° Piso” (Office on 1st [US 2nd] Floor). Upstairs, there was an office with slots for speaking to customers, but it was still dark, and there was no one there. MT called out “Ola!” (Hello!), and then a young lady came. We first asked about carimbos, but she said they didn’t have one for pilgrims but only the one for the company. We asked if they had wine tasting, and she said yes, but not normally at that time of day; however, she said that we could have some now. She said she was “quality control,” but it turned out that she and her husband were the owners. She offered us a sparkling white “champagne” (the sparkling red was not chilled yet). As we talked and she gave us a lot of information as we drank full flutes; eventually her husband (Rui Ribeiro) came. He had been to the US and 40 times to China and had done a Camino (from Mealhada). MT friended him on Facebook. We each had three full flutes, and he actually poured Don a fourth, but Don had to pass on that (if he wanted to be able to walk). The “champagne” was 13 % alcohol. We were there from 10:25 to 11:40.

10:33 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: a worker and the young lady showing us a bottle of the sparkling white “champagne,” with our credencials on the counter waiting for carimbo stamps.

Caves Arcos do Rei (Wine Cellar of Arches of the King) is a family business, linked to wine for three generations. It is located in the civil parish of Arcos e Mogofores, in the municipality of Anadia. The company produces and markets wines from the group’s vineyards in the Dão region and buys grapes to produce Bairrada wines. It also sells wines from other demarcated regions of Portugal. It also produces white and red sparkling wines from grapes of the Bairrada region.

Arcos (Anadia): carimbo stamp from “Caves Arcos do Rei, Lda., 3781-907 Anadia – Portugal” although their web site shows the postal code as 3780-907.

MT 10:42 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: the young lady pouring us sparkling white “champagne.”

10:37 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: opened bottle of “Vinho Espumante de Qualidade – Método Clássico - Vasco da Gama – Reserva.”

10:40 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: back side of bottle with label “Vinho Espumante de Qualidade – Método Clássico - Vasco da Gama – Bruto-Brut,” followed by text in Portuguese and English; English text:

"The sparkling wines Vasco de Gama are produced using the ‘Traditional method’ (Portuguese Método Clássico). The base wine is fermented in bottle, aged with yeast, followed by a period of ‘remuage’ and ‘dégorgement’.”

10:38 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: MT and Don with our flutes and the young lady, showing us a bottle of the sparkling white “champagne.”

10:52 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: male workers with husband and wife owners.

11:02 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: MT with husband and wife owners and male worker; the husband was looking at our credencials.

Bairrada is a wine region that has Portugal’s highest wine classification as a Denominação de Origem Controlade (DOC). Located between Coimbra and Águeda, the boundaries of the Bairrada DOC include the municipalities of Mealhada an Anadia. The region is bordered on the east by the mountainous Dão DOC and on the west by the beaches of the Atlantic. Viniculture has existed in the Bairrada since at least the 10th century, when the region gained independence from the Moors. Located just south of the major Port wine producing center of Oporto (Porto), the fortunes of Bairrada were on the upswing during the 17th century, when Port producers, eager to supply the growing British market, would blend Bairrada wines with the product coming from their own Douro region. The Bairrada is now a very important area for sparkling wines.

11:11 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: MT on our way out, with large bottle of the Vasco da Gama “champagne” we had, by the front door.

11:12 AM – Arcos (Anadia): Caves Arcos do Rei: exterior with MT and sign over door that had caused us to stop and enter.

11:18 AM – After Arcos (Anadia), Caves Arcos do Rei: a very happy MT on road by harvested corn stalks.

Soon, we passed through the village of Alféloas, still in the municipality of Anadia.

MT 11:26 AM – Alféloas: Don with sign entering town, still with crest of municipality of Anadia.

11:25 AM – Alféloas: “crucifix” on island of roundabout in middle of street, with a Camino marker post pointing to left and also a yellow arrow painted on the curb of the roundabout.

The Cruzeiro de Alféloas (Crucifix of Alféloas), located in the Largo do Cruzeiro (Square of the Crucifix) in Alféloas, was renovated in 2002 by the Junta da Freguesia de Arcos (Council of the Civil Parish of Arcos). In 2003, vandals removed and destroyed the cross at the top of the column, and it had to be replaced.

After Alféloas, we came to the village of Avelãs de Caminho.

Avelãs de Caminho is a town and the seat of a freguesia (civil parish, pop. 1252) of the same name in the concelho (municipality) of Anadia.

The first reference to Avelãs de Caminho goes back to chronicles of the time of Caesar Augustus, when it was referred to as Avellañum, as a region at the mouth of the Rio da Serra. This region, at the time it was occupied by the Romans, was rich in aveleiras (Portuguese for hazel shrubs). Before the name reached its final form, it was referred to as Avelanas in the 10th century, Avelanus de Susamas (or Avelãs de Baixo) in the 12th century and Avelanis de Jusanis (Avelãs de Jusão or a Jusante) in the 13th century. In the foral (charter) granted to the town by King Manuel I in 1514, it appeared nearly in its current form, as Avellãas do Caminho. The designation “do Caminho” referred to its vicinity to the Via Militar Romana (Roman Military Road) that linked Conimbriga with Bracara Augusta (Braga), coinciding with the current N-1 highway.* The municipality was created in 1835.

*Brierley’s guidebook states (apparently incorrectly): “The suffix caminho denotes associations with the medieval camino.”

12:05 PM – Near Avelãs de Caminho: another crucifix, in small park by side of road, on way into town.

The crucifix, at the entrance to the town, is in a square of the same name—Largo do Cruzeiro (Square of the Crucifix).

12:13 PM – Avelãs de Caminho: Igreja Paroquial de Santo António – left side, façade, and tower.

The Igreja Paroquial de Avelãs do Caminho (Parish Church of Avelãs do Caminho) is also known as Igreja de Santo António (Church of St. Anthony) or Igreja Matriz (Mother Church). Construction in its present form began in 1698, but preserved in its interior are some more ancient elements from the 16th and earlier 17th centuries, including the baptismal font. The tower was altered in the 19th century.

12:13 PM – Avelãs de Caminho: Igreja Paroquial de Santo António – façade and bell tower, with rooster and cross on top of tower.

After we got back on the Camino route following the wine tasting, we had started looking for a bar or café with a banho (bathroom). We finally stopped at the Caminho Bar in Avelãs de Caminho (12:25-12:32), where we got a 0.5-liter bottle of water (€0.60) and a bolo de arroz (ball of rice, €0.70), which we split, and used the banhos.

12:21 PM – Avelãs de Caminho: Caminho Bar – our bolo de arroz “com farinha de arroz” (with rice flour), as identified on its wrapper.

After the bar, we asked a man on the street where to go for the Camino route. It turned out that he was the mayor of the town; he told us to go down that street to Bar Cesar for a free champagne, but the Camino arrows veered off before that (and, of course, we had already had our champagne for the day).

The rest of the way, we found Brierley’s notes inadequate or even incorrect.

12:50 PM – After Avelãs de Caminho: Don and MT in roadside mirror, with yellow arrow on utility pole.

MT 12:57 PM – After Avelãs de Caminho: Don and MT in roadside mirror, with yellow arrow on utility pole.

We soon passed through São João da Azenha.

12:54 PM – São João da Azenha: very nice, modern house with azulejo tiles on front and manicured lawn.

São João da Azenha (St. John of Azenha; azenha is Portuguese for watermill) is a village in the freguesia (civil parish) of Sangalhos in the concelho (municipality) of Anadia in the Aveiro district. Located in this village is the famous Caves São João wine cellar, which was founded in 1920 and began to sell sparkling wines in 1930. The family-owned, independent winery is named after São João (St. John), the patron saint of the Bairrada wine region. One of the Bairrada wines produced by this cellar is called Frei João (Friar John) and pays tribute to the 17th-century Carmelite monk Frei João Baptista (Friar John the Baptist), who was one of the founders of the Convento de Santa Cruz do Buçaco (Monastery of the Holy Cross of Buçaco) in the municipality of Mealhada in 1628 and was one of the first to plant vineyards in the Bairrada region. (However, this João was not a saint.) 

1:05 PM – After São João da Azenha: Quinta da Grimpa.

Quinta da Grimpa is the private home of the part-owner of the Caves São João wine cellar in São João da Azenha and is connected the famous Bairrada grape. Despite the appearance of a classic manor house (quinta) with fine Manueline features, the house is of recent construction, less than 40 years old. It was erected with pieces brought from the demolition of an old tower that was in the region, giving its exterior a look of nobility. The property has two vineyards around the building.

1:06 PM – After São João da Azenha: Quinta da Grimpa (mild telephoto 46 mm).

1:06 PM (Cropped) – After São João da Azenha: Quinta da Grimpa – Manueline door.

1:06 PM – After São João da Azenha: Quinta da Grimpa – sign to left of front gate for “Rota do Vinho da Bairrada” (Bairrada Wine Route).

Around 1:15 pm, we reached Aguada de Baixo.

1:14 PM – Aguada de Baixo: sign entering town, for Freguesia de Aguada de Baixo in Município de Águeda.

Aguada de Baixo was the southernmost freguesia (civil parish, pop. 1373) in the municipality of Águeda until the administrative reorganization of 2013, when it was merged with Barró to form a new parish called the União das Freguesias de Barró e Aguada de Baixo (Union of Civil Parishes of Barró and Aguada de Baixo) with a population of 3,209. The original freguesia of Aguada de Baixo received its foral (charter) from King Manuel I in 1514.

Aguada de Baixo (Lower Aguada) is situated at the extreme south of the municipality, with Aguada de Cima (Upper Aguada) neighboring it to the northeast.

1:29 PM – Aguada de Baixo: covered crucifix - Cruzeiro de Aguada de Baixo.

The Cruzeiro de Aguada de Baixo (Crucifix of Aguada de Baixo) is located in the Largo do Cruzeiro (Square of the Crucifix) in the center of an intersection. There is a quadrangular open porch on Tuscan columns set on a rhomboid plinth that supports a continuous entablature, with pinnacles with pyramidal tops (some of which are now missing), on which rests an 8-sided pyramidal dome crowned by a pyramidal pinnacle with a sphere on top. Beneath this cover is a quadrangular pillar set on a platform. A Latin cross with painted statue of Christ is based on a Tuscan-style pedestal and a plinth with the inscription “Restaurado/em/1972” (Restored in 1972). The Mannerist crucifix was originally constructed in the 17th century.

1:31 PM – Aguada de Baixo: church called Igreja Paroquial de Aguada de Baixo or Igreja de São Martinho.

The Igreja Paroquial de Aguada de Baixo (Parish Church of Aguada de Baixo) is dedicated to São Martinho (St. Martin) and is, therefore, also known as Igreja de São Martinho. It is also known as Igreja Matriz de Aguada de Baixo (Mother Church of Aguada de Baixo). It is a Mannerist church, with some Neoclassical elements. It was built in the 17th century and remodeled in the 20th. However, a document of the year 957 already referred to the Igreja de São Martinho.

The main façade is covered with azulejo tiles and topped with a countercurved gable with a cross. The main portal is topped by a cornice and an oculus (circular window) below a niche with a statue of the parton saint. Attached to the nave, on the right, is a bell tower, also covered on all sides with azulejos, with round-arched windows on all sides.

The main body of the church is composed of a nave, a presbytery, and a main chapel (chancel) and low choir that are lower and narrower. The nave is illuminated by three windows in the left side and by windows in the main chapel. The interior has a high choir resting on arches supported by pillars, and a baptistery in the low choir in the base of the bell tower. Most notable in the interior is the main altarpiece of Mannerist carving.

1:32 PM – Aguada de Baixo: monument across from the church, commemorating the 500th anniversary in 2014 of the granting of the foral (charter) to Aguada de Baixo by “Dom Manuel” (King Manuel I); flanking the coat of arms at the top are two armillary spheres (the personal emblem of Dom Manuel).

2:56 PM – After Aguada de Baixo: sign for “Estrada Real” (Royal Road).

The Estrada Real (Royal Road) runs north-south through the freguesia (civil parish) of Borralha, in the concelho (municipality) of Águeda in the Aveiro district. In the south, it begins about halfway between Aguada de Baixo and Barró and runs north toward Águeda.

2:58 PM – After Aguada de Baixo: chestnuts on roadside (the first we had seen in Portugal).

As we were going through the industrial zone of Barró, a man came out of a building and pointed to a Camino scallop shell fastened to the building’s wall, asking if we were peregrinhos (pilgrims). When Don said “sí,” he motioned for us to come inside with him, where he presented us with plastic bags (each with 2 apples and half-liter bottles of water) and his business card. His card identified him as Nelson R. Simões, Technical Director of Laboratório de Enologia (Análises a Vinhos) – Productor e Engarrador de Aguardentes Velhas [Laboratory of Enology (Analyses of Wines) – Producer and Bottler of Old Spirits]. He gave us carimbos (with his name) and showed us a notebook where he kept postcards and emails with photos of other pilgrims he had met and helped.

Barró: carimbo stamp from “Nelson Ribeiro Simões.”

MT 2:40 PM – Barró: Nelson Simões and Don.

MT 2:41 PM – Barró: Nelson Simões (with bag of apples and water bottle) and MT.

MT 3:33 PM – After Barró: Don on footbridge.

Around 3:30 pm, we reached Águeda.

3:35 PM – Águeda: MT crossing bridge over Rio Águeda into town, near the Posto de Turismo (Office of Tourism).

Águeda is a city (pop. 14,500) in a concelho (municipality, pop. 12,000) of the same name in the Aveiro district; outside of the city, the municipality has 11 freguesias (civil parishes). Águeda has been the seat of the municipality since 1834 and has had the official status of cidade (city) since 1985. It was built on the foundations of successive Celt, Turduli, and Greek settlements since 370 BC. In the 9th century, Águeda (then referred to as Ágata) was a prosperous town, with stable commerce and an active port that supported local and regional businesses. It was mentioned in documents from 1050 to 1077, both times by its primitive name Casal Lousado (Latin: Casal Lousato) or by its Latinized forms Anegia, Agatha, and Ágada. In a document dated 1050, there is mention of several villages situated within the current borders, many with names originating from Arabic languages.

Unlike neighboring towns, Águeda never received a foral (charter) during the Middle Ages. It was considered royal lands and the dominions of monasteries. It functioned as an ancillary center on the road to Santiago de Compostela.

After the establishment of the Kingdom of Portugal, from the 11th to 12th centuries, the inhabitants prospered and had many privileges, but their representatives never requested a foral declaration. In 1515, King Manuel I included Águeda in a general foral granted to Aveiro. The important strategic politico-military position of Águeda allowed it to support military troops during the Second French Invasion (1808-1809), when it functioned as a military hospital. The municipality of Águeda, established in 1834, integrated many older concelhos of medieval origins, but long since extinct.

On the way to our hotel, on Rua Luis Camões, we were surprised to see that the street was covered with colorful umbrellas.

3:38 PM – Águeda: Rua Luis Camões covered with umbrellas.

Rua Luis Camões is the main shopping street in the lively lower town in Águeda.

Every July, as part of the Agitágueda Art Festival, thousands of colorful umbrellas are hung over promenades in a handful of Águeda’s narrow streets, for the Umbrella Sky Project, and remain hanging during August and September. Rooftop cables are strung with numerous parasols, creating a sea of umbrellas in unique geometric patterns overhead. The beautiful tradition started in 2011 and has earned world fame. The installation not only adds a vibrant splash of color to the otherwise plain streets, but also creates a much needed shade from the heat. Also, dozens of spots, including park benches, lampposts, and long stairs resembling rainbows, are painted with appealing color variations, and there are many other hotspots of color. A gigantic tent is set up for the festival, also with the famous umbrella decoration.

MT 3:45 PM – Águeda: Rua Luis Camões covered with umbrellas.

MT 3:49 PM – Águeda: Rua Luis Camões covered with umbrellas.

MT 3:44 PM – Águeda: building on Rua Luis Camões with umbrellas on balconies.

MT 3:48 PM – Águeda: Don on rainbow-painted bench on Rua Luis Camões pedestrian walkway.

MT 3:48 PM – Águeda: another rainbow-painted bench on Rua Luis Camões pedestrian walkway.

MT 3:48 PM – Águeda: collage of building with umbrellas on balconies and two rainbow-painted benches (one with Don) on Rua Luis Camões.

MT 6:53 PM – Águeda: rainbow-painted stairs (3 flights visible) leading off to side of Rua Luis Camões.

3:44 PM – Águeda: Hotel Conde d’ Águeda – exterior, as we approached.

We finally got to the 4-start Hotel Conde d’ Águeda (Count of Águeda) around 4 pm. (A sign by the reception desk said a double room was €95.) Several ladies had to help us get the air conditioner started and told us we could either eat (tapas or pizza or pasta, but no fish) at the hotel bar, or they would give us a voucher for a nearby restaurant (which we elected). Dinner at the Restaurante Telhas e Canecos would start at 7:30 pm. We took showers and washed a few clothes and hung them in the bathroom (since there was no balcony). The hotel ladies also found out for us that there was a mass at 7:15 pm in the nearby church. Then we went up to the 5th-floor lounge, where MT could get WiFi and Don caught up with his notes.

Friday, ‎September ‎09, ‎2016, 8:57 AM – Águeda: Hotel Conde d’ Águeda – view of steps and street in front of hotel, from 5th floor.

From the 5th-floor lounge, we could see the east (apse) end of the Igreja de Santa Eulália and also had a nice view from above of the Umbrella Sky Project on Rua Luis Camões. There were also some interesting older buildings around the hotel. (Don would also take better photos in the morning sun when we went back up to the 5th floor for breakfast.)

Thursday, ‎September ‎08, ‎2016, 6:13 PM – Águeda: Igreja de Santa Eulália – east (apse) end of church (with large azulejo tile panel) viewed from Hotel Conde d’ Águeda.

Friday, ‎September ‎09, ‎2016, 8:55 AM – Águeda: Igreja de Santa Eulália – east (apse) end of church (with large azulejo tile panel) viewed from Hotel Conde d’ Águeda, in morning sun.

Friday, ‎September ‎09, ‎2016, 8:55 AM (Cropped) – Águeda: Igreja de Santa Eulália – east (apse) end of church (with large azulejo tile panel) viewed from Hotel Conde d’ Águeda, in morning sun.

MT Friday, ‎September ‎09, ‎2016, 9:11 AM – Águeda: Umbrella Sky Project on Rua Luis Camões viewed from Hotel Conde d’ Águeda.

Thursday, ‎September ‎08, ‎2016, 6:13 PM – Águeda: Umbrella Sky Project on Rua Luis Camões viewed across roof of Hotel Conde d’ Águeda (telephoto 90 mm).

Friday, ‎September ‎09, ‎2016, 8:55 AM – Águeda: Umbrella Sky Project on Rua Luis Camões viewed from Hotel Conde d’ Águeda (telephoto 112 mm).

Thursday, ‎September ‎08, ‎2016, 6:17 PM – Águeda: festival grounds to south viewed from Hotel Conde d’ Águeda (telephoto 112 mm).

Friday, ‎September ‎09, ‎2016, 8:56 AM – Águeda: interesting building just east of Hotel Conde d’ Águeda, from 5th floor.

Friday, ‎September ‎09, ‎2016, 8:56 AM – Águeda: interesting building with azulejo tiles and for sale sign on fence, just east of Hotel Conde d’ Águeda, in morning with some sun.

We went to mass at Igreja de Santa Eulália near the hotel (7:15-7:45 pm).

Thursday, ‎September ‎08, ‎2016, 6:55 PM – Águeda: Igreja de Santa Eulália – main (west) façade, bell tower, and south side.

The Igreja de Santa Eulália (Church of St. Eulália), also known as Igreja Matriz de Águeda (Mother Church of Águeda) is dedicated to Santa Eulália, the patron saint of Águeda, who is considered one of the greatest martyrs of the first three centuries of the Christian era. This construction is one of the oldest monuments of the city. It was around this church that the population began to cluster. It is uncertain when its construction started, since it only began to appear in documents in 1320. Throughout the 16th and 8th centuries, great restorations were carried out, which can still be seen today. One enters through an external atrium composed of nine slightly arched spans, leading to the internal atrium. To the left is the statue of Santa Eulália, in Gothic style, from the 15th century, damaged by erosion because for many years it was in a niche on the façade. This is the oldest image found in the church. Also in the atrium is the Deposition in the Tomb, a sculpture of the dead Jesus and other persons involved in the descent from the cross. In the main nave is the oil painting “Panel of Santa Eulália,” 4.4 m high and 2.05 m wide, from the Lisbon workshop of the 18th century. Walking in the direction of the central nave, one can admire the altarpieces and ornaments. The altarpiece on the right has a wooden statue of Santa Luzia, from the 18th century. The altarpiece on the left has a gilded statue of Our Lady of the Rosary, also from the 18th century. The main chapel (chancel) has the main altarpiece with images of St. Peter on the right and Santa Eulália on the left. In the baptistery is the baptismal font, whose Gothic cup has 16 vertical flutes and 9 children’s heads.

6:55 PM – Águeda: Igreja de Santa Eulália – main (west) façade and bell tower.

7:39 PM – Águeda: Igreja de Santa Eulália – interior, view from rear of central nave to main altar in apse.

After mass, we went back to the hotel to get MT’s jacket. Then we went to dinner at Restaurante Telhas e Canecos (Tiles and Steins), just 2 blocks from the hotel: appetizers: hard-boiled quail eggs, deep-fried cheese, and some sea creature, little toasts, and marinated seafood (a little like ceviche); basket of bread; 1/2 liter local red wine; 1-liter bottle of water; main course: both had grilled salmon with cooked potatoes and salad; desert: MT cheesecake with blueberries/Don carmel mousse.

MT 8:15 PM – Águeda: Restaurante Telhas e Canecos - appetizers.

8:22 PM – Águeda: Restaurante Telhas e Canecos – salad, cooked potatoes, and salmon.