This post is based primarily on
Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our Camino in 2016.
When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers
or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany
this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was
taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of
the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain
Wikimedia Commons) indicate that source in the caption.
MT Saturday, September 17, 2016, 7:52 (7:47) AM – Viana do Castelo: view of
Eiffel bridge over Rio Lima, from our hotel.
We
departed at 8:40.
To
get to the Camino route, the hotel desk clerk had drawn on our map that we
should go back under the bridge, then past the Capela das Almas (Chapel of the
Souls) to the Cathedral, and then around several curves to a traffic circle
where we should see shells. When we asked for directions to the Cathedral, we
were misdirected to the Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy).
Near
the Igreja da Misericórdia and the Cathedral (of which we never got a clear
view), we happened upon some people in local costumes preparing for some event
near the Museu de Traje (Museum of
Folk Costumes).
8:49 AM – Viana do Castelo: People in local
costumes preparing for some event near the Museu de Traje (Museum of Folk
Costumes).
Viana is thriving in folkloric
traditions, including the colorful regional dress and gold adornments of its
women.
However,
MT read in the Follow the Camino walking notes about going along the waterfront
to a fort. So we headed for the Marina
Atlantica, where we saw the Gil Eannes
ship.
Viana do Castelo: Gil
Eannes ship
The Gil Eannes, built in Viana do Castelo in 1955, is a former flagship
and hospital ship of the Portuguese White Fleet that was part of a cod fishing operation
in the seas off Newfoundland and Greenland. It is now permanently moored in the
Port of Viana do Castelo, where it serves as a museum and youth hostel.
However,
we went along the left side of the ship and came to a dead end on that side of
the marina. Then a man told us to go back to the ship and cross over to the
right side of the marina. That street led us to the Forte de Santiago da Barra and a large park.
9:13 AM – Viana do Castelo: Forte de Santiago da Barra with construction cranes and wind turbine.
The Forte de Santiago da Barra (Fort of St. James of the Bar), also
known as Castelo de Santiago da Barra or Castelo de São Tiago Maior da Barra,
is located in the town of Monserrate, in the city, municipality, and district
of Viana do Castelo. In a dominant position of the right bank of the Rio Lima,
its function was to defend the harbor and settlement of Viana da Foz do Lima,
the present Viana do Castelo. By the middle of the 15th century, Viana da Foz
do Lima was one of the great seaports of Portugal, and the village was
outgrowing its original medieval wall. Once the maritime route to the Indies
was opened, in order to protect the navigation around the bar at the mouth of
the Lima, in 1502 King Manuel I ordered the construction of a tower, the Torre
da Roqueta, to the west of the village, facing the Rio Lima. The need for
defense of the bar led to construction of a small fort, Fort de Viana,
completed in 1572, next to that tower. During the reign of Philip I
(1580-1598), the Forte de Viana was completely remodeled and enlarged between
1589 and 1596. It was again remodeled between 1652 and 1654, then again in 1799.
By 1758, it became known as Forte de Santiago da Barra, The Capela de Santiago
was within its walls. It was classified as a Property of Public Interest in
1967.
The fortress is in a pentagonal
shape, with triangular bastions at the corners, each with a circular
guardhouse. The rectangular Torre da Roqueta is still integrated into the
southwest part of the fortress.
9:12 AM – Viana do Castelo: Forte de Santiago da Barra with construction cranes and wind turbine (mild telephoto 54
mm).
After
the large roundabout, we followed the road on the (walking notes) map that
turned around toward the route marked by the desk clerk (it turned out to be a
highway with only a narrow shoulder for us to walk). When we got to the
intersection where the map showed the Camino route turning sharp to the left,
we saw a large group of pilgrims heading that way and followed them. It was a
group of young people and maybe three adults who had started in Porto and were
doing only part of the Camino at this time. We would stay with them off and on
all the way to Âncora.
Before
we got out of town, Don had to stop at a bar
for the banho (9:15-9:30).
10:21 AM – After Viana do Castelo: hórreo.
NOTE:
None of the hórreos we were seeing in
Portugal seemed to have a cross or any other finials atop the roof.
10:23 AM – After Viana do Castelo: another hórreo.
We
soon caught up with the same group of pilgrims.
10:26 AM – After Viana do Castelo: group of
young people getting carimbo stamps
at homeless shelter.
10:30 AM – After Viana do Castelo: MT and
group of young people getting carimbo
stamps at homeless shelter; we had seen the wordless sign with yellow arrow,
scallop shell with Cross of Santiago, and a rubber stamp, and someone had rung
the bell (mild telephoto 64 mm).
10:47 AM – After Viana do Castelo: path of
large stones between stone walls.
Just
past village of Areosa, we came to the Quinta
da Boa Viagem, where we saw some people atop the wall and others entering
the gate.
10:52 AM – After Viana do Castelo: Quinta
da Boa Viagem - entrance. Above the gate is a coat of arms (probably of the
16th-century explorer who had it built] topped by a statue (perhaps also of the
same explorer).
The Quinta da Boa Viagem (Manor House of the Good Journey) is located
on the slopes of the Serra de Santa Luzia mountain, just 5 km from Viana do
Castelo. It is a notable example of a 16th-century Portuguese manor house,
standing on grounds of 4 hectares (10 acres). Originally called Quinta de Santa
María da Vinha (Manor House of St. Mary of the Vineyard), it belonged to the
noble merchant and Portuguese discoverer Gonçalo Ferreira de Villas Boas [or de
Villalobos], who received a coat of arms in 1579 and lived at that time in
Viana da Foz do Lima (now Viana do Castelo). In 1608, he mentioned in his will
the heir of Boa Viagem and the associated chapel, on the farm he owned. It is
still owned by his family, who have converted it into an inn in 1990. The tower
actually dates back to the 12th century, when it was built to protect the
pilgrimage route. The terraced gardens were added in the 18th century and are
filled with Baroque statues and fountains, as well as exotic trees and shrubs.
The former farm buildings have been converted into 6 cottages. It offers a
magnificent view of the Atlantic.
10:53 AM – After Areosa: Quinta da Boa
Viagem – view through entrance.
10:54 AM – After Areosa: Quinta da Boa
Viagem – looking back at Quinta entrance in wall at left and Capela de Nossa
Senhora da Boa Viagem across road on right.
Just outside the front gate is
the Quinta’s chapel, Capela de Nossa
Senhora da Boa Viagem (Chapel of Our Lady of the Good Voyage), also from
the 16th century. This patron saint, protector of travelers and men of the sea,
was a name for Mary that arose during the Portuguese Age of Discoveries. The
chapel has a main portal with a full arch, preceded by a porch that rests on
Tuscan columns.
10:55 AM – After Areosa: sign pointing back
to “Quinta da Boa Viagem” (how we first identified the place) and cruzeiro (cross) behind wall.
11:13 AM – After Areosa: MT on dirt and
stone path by masonry wall.
Then
we came to Carreço.
Carreço is a small
village (pop. 759) and the seat of a freguesia
(civil parish, pop. 1,820) of the same name, in the municipality of Viana do
Castelo. It is located 6 or 7 km north of the city of Viana do Castelo. The
first written record of the “villa” of Carreço was in 1258.
Carreço: coat of arms of
Freguesia de Carreço
The coat of arms of the freguesia features the Farol de Montedor
(Montedor Lighthouse) that is its best known landmark, operating since 1910 at
the mouth of the Rio Lima; to the right of the lighthouse is a windmill (in a
form unique to the municipality, with trapezoidal wooden sails) representing
work in the field; on the left is a lyre (symbol of Carreço’s first cultural
institution, the Troupe Musical 1°
de Agosto, founded in 1903, which gave rise to the current Sociedade de
Instrução e Recreio de Carreço [Society of Instruction and Recreation of
Carreço]) representing the cultural life.
11:36 AM – Carreço: hórreo on other side of masonry wall (mild telephoto 46 mm).
11:36 AM – Carreço: other end of same hórreo, showing missing wooden sides
(telephoto 260 mm).
11:37 AM – Carreço: sign for Turismo Rural
Casa do Nato (bed & breakfast House of Nato), with yellow arrow on stone
wall also pointing that way.
Nato, or Bouça do
Nato, is a place name from the Minho region that dates back to the 16th
century.
11:42 AM – Carreço: Igreja Paroquial de
Carreço – façade and bell tower.
The Igreja Paroquial de Carreço (Parish Church of Carreço) is also
known as Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Graça (Church of Our Lady of Grace) or
Igreja de Santa María (Church of St. Mary).
The first reference to the church
goes back to the 10th century: “et Oori et Karrezo.” In 1258, then called
“Carreço,” it was in a list of churches belonging to the bishopric of Tui. In
similar lists from 1320 to 1546, it was referred to as Santa María de Carreço.
It is thought that the earliest
church on this site was the Capela de São Paio (Chapel of St. Paio). It is also
possible that, as in other medieval parishes, the chapel in Carreço had two
patron saints: Santa María (St. Mary) and St. Paio. Then, in the 16th century,
when it was decided to construct a new church, only the name Santa María
transferred to the church, with St. Paio being the patron of the chapel that
existed before the church. Although the church is now known as Igreja Paroquial
de Carreço, the religious parish is known as Paróquia de Santa María de
Carreço.
The current church was built in
the 16th-17th centuries. Due to several renovations over the years, it now shows
characteristics of Manueline, Mannerist, and Baroque architecture.
11:52 AM – Carreço: signs for Sociedade de
Instrução e Recreio de Carreço (Society of Instruction and Recreation of
Carreço), Escola Primaria (Primary School), and Jardim Infantil (Kindergarten),
of which the top one gave us the name of the village Carreço; note the yellow
arrow below the signs.
While
in Carreço, we stopped at a bar for carimbo stamps, which said “casulo ABRIGO.” We also
bought sangria and bread with cheese, and a bottle of water (€…). We used the banho and talked with a couple from
Ireland (she was originally from Australia).
Carreço: carimbo stamp from “casul ABRIGO, Directora Téchnica:” (casul
ABRIGO, Technical Director).
Also
in Carreço, we stopped at Albergue Casa
do Sardão, where MT got carimbo
stamps while Don used
the banho. While at this hostel,
Don’s camera went dead; so he just took out the battery and blew on it (as we
had looked up in the online manual on MT’s iPhone back during our 2014 Camino
Francés), and it worked again.
Carreço: carimbo stamp from “Casa do Sardão Albergue,: with salamander logo.
12:13 PM – Carreço: two hórreos (mild telephoto 54 mm).
12:15 PM – Carreço: another hórreo, with tile roof (telephoto 133
mm).
12:18 PM – Carreço: vegetable garden with
carrots in cart by gate in stone fence and farmer in field beyond; sign for Rua
do Neva and coat of arms of Freguesia de Carreço on left gatepost (mild
telephoto 46 mm).
12:18 PM (Cropped) – Carreço: street sign for Rua
do Neva with coat of arms of Freguesia de Carreço on gatepost of stone wall
(photo taken at other end of town).
After
Carreço but before Âncora (not Vila
Praia de Âncora), MT tripped on the forest path and fell hard, hitting one
knee, scraping an elbow and hands, and bruising both lower legs. When she got
over the initial pain, she was able to walk the rest of the way.
12:20 PM – After Carreço: MT on stone and
dirt path through eucalyptus, with stone wall on left (shortly after her fall).
12:23 PM – After Carreço: more of stone and
dirt path through eucalyptus (uphill).
12:47 PM – After Carreço: MT at fork in
stone and dirt path; yellow arrow painted on stone pointed straight ahead
(which fork? Hopefully, they would both join up again).
Before
crossing the Rio Âncora into Vila Praia de Âncora, we first came to the town
called just Âncora.
Âncora (meaning
anchor) is a town in a freguesia
(civil parish, pop. 1,182) of the same name in the municipality of Caminha. (For
the origin of the town’s name, see the note on Vila Praia de Âncora below.) It
is situated on the left (south) bank of the Rio Âncora. The occupation of this
territory dates back to the prehistoric period. In the Bronze Age, the people
lived in fortified villages called castros
(hill forts) on elevated terrain. These castros
lasted into the Middle Ages. Roman occupation led to urbanization in the time
of Caesar Augustus, at the beginning of the Christian era. There are
difficulties in determining the origin of the paróquia (religious parish). Some experts say it already existed in
the 6th century, with the name of Santa Maria de Villar de Âncora. Some say
Santa Maria de Âncora was formerly called Villar de Âncora, due to the presence
of a castle that had walls. In 1156, when King Alfonso VII of Castile and León,
with the agreement of Dom Afonso Henriques, confirmed the division of churches
in the bishopric of Tui, he listed a “maritime land” that included Santa María
de Âncora and Santa María de Villar de Âncora. After Viana do Castelo was
granted a foral (royal charter) in
1258, the future district was created between the Rio Lima and Rio Âncora,
still under the patronage of the bishop of Tui. A 1321 document regarding
ecclesiastical taxes paid to the bishopric of Tui listed “Iglésia de Sancta
María de Âncora.” In 1456, the Igreja de Santa María de Âncora was placed under
the patronage of the abbot of the Mosteiro de São João de Cabanas (Monastery of
St. John of Cabanas).
The current Igreja de Santa Maria de Âncora (Church of St. Mary of Âncora) was
built in 1360 and probably restored in 1886, at which time the cemetery was
attached.
A major political alteration of
the paróquia happened in 1836, in
which the municipality of Viana do Castelo gained some freguesias from the old municipality of Barcelos, losing only the
Freguesia de Âncora to the municipality of Caminha.
1:51 PM – Âncora: MT (far right) on
cobblestone road, with possibly our first view of Vila Praia de Âncora in
distance; note the yellow arrow spray-painted on the utility pole at left,
telling us to turn right.
1:57 PM – Âncora: cruzeiro (cross) with date “1779” on plinth (base) and view of
ocean and Vila Praia de Âncora in distance; note the yellow arrow spray-painted
on the utility pole at left, telling us to go straight.
MT 2:11 (2:04) PM – Âncora: Don with anchor
(symbol of Âncora) in garden.
2:39 PM – Âncora: corn (on cob and shelled)
drying on pavement.
2:39 PM – Âncora: corn (on cob and shelled)
drying on pavement.
2:40 PM – Âncora: another anchor (symbol of
Âncora); in background is sign in front of “Junta de Freguesia de Âncora”
(Council of the Civil Parish of Âncora) with the coat of arms of the freguesia.
The coat of arms of the Freguesia de Âncora is a silver shield sown
with green trees, having in its center a black pillory (indicating that Âncora
received a foral (royal charter]),
highlighted in silver; at the bottom are wavy blue, silver, and green strips
(representing the Rio Âncora and/or the sea). The shield is topped with a
silver crown with three towers. Below the shield is a white banner with the black
inscription “Âncora.”
Of course, there is also a Junta
de Freguesia de Vila Praia de Âncora.
2:40 PM – Âncora: a rather unique cruzeiro, with the cross at the top
covered by a stone baldachin (canopy).
2:43 PM – Âncora: hórreo, with brick sides, behind wall.
2:44 PM – Âncora: garden with many
topiaries (shaped trees and bushes), including one shaped like a chair (next to
MT).
2:44 PM – Âncora: MT by topiary bush shaped
like a chair.
2:46 PM – Âncora: chestnuts on tree behind
stone wall.
2:48 PM – After Âncora: stone bridge with
(medieval?) cutwaters over a shallow, clear stream (probably Rio Âncora).
After
crossing the Rio Âncora, we were in the Freguesia
de Vila Praia de Âncora. We had decided not to use the Follow the Camino
walking notes this day, and when we did look at them a few times, they didn’t
help. Approaching Vila Praia de Âncora, we found no boardwalks at all. We
followed the yellow arrows and were never on the N13 highway, as described in
the notes.
2:49 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: MT on stone
and dirt path between stone walls; it looked like water was blocking the path
ahead.
2:49 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: MT on stone
walkway beside water.
2:53 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Sign for “Bom
Caminho!” (Good Walk!) with yellow arrow toward Santiago and blue arrow toward
Fátima; coat of arms of Freguesia de Vila Praia de Âncora.
Vila
Praia de Âncora
(meaning Town of the Beach of the Anchor) is a town in a freguesia (civil parish, pop. 4,820) of the same name, in the
municipality of Caminha. It was elevated to the status of vila (town) in 1924, at which time it changed its original name from
Santa Marinha de Gontinhães to Vila Praia de Âncora.
The area has been populated since
the Palaeolithic era. The region has numerous megaliths, including the Dólmen
de Barrosa, from the end of the 3rd millennium B.C., in the town itself. The town
was quite wealthy during the Roman occupation, thanks to the extraction of
numerous ores (gold, tin) carried by the Rio Âncora. The parish first appeared
in documentation of the 10th century, then with the name Gontinhães (sometimes spelled
Guntilares). The town was referred to in church registers of 1258 as the parish
of Santa Marinha de Gontinhães (spelled Guntianes); at that time it was not on
the seaside but well hidden from the ocean view to avoid being prey for
Scandinavian ships that were exploring the Iberian coast. Documents from 1320
and later referred to Gontinhães.
One theory is that the Romans
gave it the name Âncora (Latin Ancora,
meaning anchor) because it was where they anchored their ships to disembark
troops and transport their ore. According to a more popular tradition (legend)
dating from the 13th century, the name is said to be related to the drowning in
the waters of the river near Gontinhães of Queen Dona Urraca with an anchor
tied to her neck, in punishment for adultery against her husband King Ramiro II
of León (ca. 900-951, ruled 931-951). According to this legend, this was the
origin of the name of the river and of two towns near its mouth. However, the
name is actually earlier and already had its origin in the name of the river.
When the parish was formed, the site of the present town was completely
uninhabited, for fear of attacks by Norman pirates. That is why the initial
parish was founded in the “Villa” of Guntilares (from the name of a vassal
called Guntila), which was more inland. That Villa would have been the result
of repopulating this stretch of the coast in the 9th century. Also dating from
that century is the first consecrated Igreja de Santa Marinha.
Vila Praia de Âncora: coat of arms of the freguesia
(Copyrighted free use, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=34942525).
2:56 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Sign for our
hotel, Hotel Meira, with “Special rates for pilgrims” in 1 km, and Welcome in 5
languages.
Before
going to Hotel Meira, we stopped at the Capela
de Nossa Senhora de Bonança to check on Saturday evening mass. The church
bulletin board said there was one at 7 pm, but there was also one listed for 6
pm at the Igreja Matriz (Mother Church).
3:12 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Capela de
Nossa Senhora de Bonança – façade and bell tower.
The Capela de Nossa Senhora de Bonança (Chapel of Our Lady of
Calm/Prosperity) is a Neoclassical church with a single nave and a slightly
narrower rectangular main chapel (chancel). The west-facing main façade is
topped by a counter-curved gable crowned by a Latin cross. The main portal is
surmounted by a curved pediment that bears the initials of the Medeiros family.
Above the portal is a stained glass window of the patron saint, topped by a
full arch and set in vegetal ornamentation. Ionic pilasters at the sides of the
façade support a classic entablature with a denticulated cornice, topped by fogaréus (finials?). Attached to the
south (right) of the façade is a quadrangular bell tower with three registers
separated by cornices; the tower is topped by an onion-shaped dome with a
weather vane in the shape of a fish.
The interior features three Neoclassical
altarpieces. At the front of the nave are two side altars in painted and gilded
carving. The triumphal arch, based on Tuscan pilasters, is round and smooth,
except for a stone coat of arms of the Medeiros family. In the chancel is the
main altarpiece, also in painted and gilded carving, with access by three
steps. The ceilings of the nave and chancel have painted panels representing
the Mysteries of the Rosary, the Image of Our Lady of Bonança, and symbols of
Vila Praia de Âncora. The interior of the nave and chancel have azulejo tiles on the lower walls.
Construction of the chapel in its
current configuration began in 1890, replacing the old Capela de Senhora das
Necessidades (Chapel of Our Lady of Necessities) from the 18th century. The
bell tower was finished in the 1920s, and the paintings on the ceilings in the
1970s.
3:12 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Capela de
Nossa Senhora de Bonança – view from rear of nave to main altar in chancel;
with Andor de Nossa Senhora de Bonança stored on right side of nave.
The Percorre de Nossa Senhora de Bonança (Procession of Our Lady of
Calm/Prosperity) is a traditional procession (also called Processão or Procissão)
held since 1893 in honor of the patron saint of the fishermen of Vila Praia de
Âncora. Every year on the second Sunday of September, during the Festa de Nossa
Senhora de Bonança (Feast of Our Lady of Calm/Prosperity) (Sunday, September
8-11, 2016), in a manifestation of religiosity, the people of the sea of that
fishing village carry on their shoulders the magnificent, boat-shaped andor (processional platform), with the
statue of the saint amid rich floral adornment. Townspeople in local costumes
also carry 22 other andores,
including ones with the images of Santa Lúzia and Nossa Senhora do Minho, all
23 of them covered with palm hearts, pine cones, and flowering branches. This
event, a cultural as well as religious celebration, attracts thousands of
people from throughout the municipality of Caminha and beyond.
7:49 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Capela de
Nossa Senhora de Bonança – boat-shaped processional piece Andor de Nossa
Senhora de Bonança with statue of Virgin and Child at top stored on right side
of nave; behind it to the left is one of the Neoclassical gilded side altars
(photo taken when returned for mass).
3:13 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Capela de
Nossa Senhora de Bonança – mass schedule on bulletin board.
3:17 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Hotel Meira
- exterior.
We
arrived at Hotel Meira (4-star) shortly
after 3:15. The desk clerk said the Igreja Matriz (Mother Church) was about a
15 minute walk. We got carimbo stamps
at the hotel.
Vila Praia de Âncora: carimbo stamp with
the words “Hotel Meira. Vila Praia de Âncora – Bom Caminho” (Good Walk) surrounding
an anchor.
At
check-in, the desk clerk wanted us to order from their dinner menu. We ordered:
1st course: both chose toast and tomato sauce (rather than vegetable soup,
again); 2nd course: both chose pescada
(hake), normally fried but she said we could get it grilled. At the hotel, we
showered and washed clothes and hung them in the bathroom (there was no balcony,
and our window opened onto the pool).
Then
we went to the Praia de Praia de Âncora
(redundantly, Beach of the Beach of Âncora).
5:50 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: view north
on beach to Forte de Lagarteira fortress.
The fortress, Forte de Lagarteira is also known as
Forte de Âncora. It is located at the old place of Lagarteira, in the present
town of Vila Praia de Âncora. Situated on a rocky rise on the right (north) bank
of the mouth of the Rio Âncora with a dominant position on the beach, it
defended the port and fishing village and supported the defense of the Forte de
Caminha. Although some experts believe the modern fortification goes back to
the time of the War of Restoration (1640-1668), it is more correctly attributed
to the reign of Pedro II of Portugal (1667-1705), during which it reinforced
the defenses of the borderline of the Rio Minho (between Portugal and Spain) and
the seacoast south of its mouth in the face of the Spanish threat. The small
fortress is polygonal, star-shaped, formed by four bastions and a battery emphasized
by the side of the river. Its masonry walls feature guardhouses at the corners.
It was classified as a Property of Public Interest in 1967.
5:50 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: beach and
Forte de Lagarteira (telephoto 260 mm).
5:59 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: boats and
Forte de Lagarteira (mild telephoto 46 mm).
MT 6:06 (5:59) PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: seagull
in surf on beach.
5:54 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: beach and
view to south.
5:57 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: MT on beach
and view to south.
5:58 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: MT on beach
and view to south (telephoto 112 mm).
6:00 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: beach with
seagulls and view to south (telephoto 112 mm).
MT 6:10 (6:03) PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: MT
on rock barrier on beach, with Forte de Lagarteira in background.
MT 6:17 (6:10) PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Don
picking up shell on beach.
MT 6:12 (6:05) PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Don
with shell on beach.
MT 6:17 (6:10) PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: shells
in sand and surf on beach.
MT 6:18 (6:11) PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: view
of beach to north, with sun low on horizon.
At 7 pm, we went to mass at the Capela de Nossa Senhora de Bonança,
where we got carimbo stamps.
Vila Praia de Âncora: carimbo stamp for “Caminho Portugués da
Costa – Vila Praia de Âncora – Portugal” (Portuguese Camino of the Coast - Vila
Praia de Âncora – Portugal) surrounding a drawing of the Lagarteiro fortress
and a scallop shell.
After
mass, we went back to the beach
around sunset.
7:55
PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: sunset over beach and view to north.
7:55 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: sunset over
beach and Forte de Lagarteira (telephoto 90 mm).
We
ate the dinner we had ordered at Restaurante
Dona Belinha in Hotel Meira: 1st course: both chose toast and tomato sauce
(rather than vegetable soup, again); 2nd course: both chose pescada (hake), normally fried but she
said we could get it grilled. We had to pay €6 for a bottle of red Douro wine
and €2 for a bottle of water. We also got (included) dessert: MT fruit and Don
layered cake with something like mousse between layers.
8:28 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Restaurante
Dona Belinha – Don’s pescada (hake)
with clams on top.
MT 8:39 (8:32) PM – Vila Praia de Âncora:
Restaurante Dona Belinha – MT’s pescada
(hake) with clams on top.
8:48 PM – Vila Praia de Âncora: Hotel Meira
– price list and general rules, in our Room No. 114.
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