This post is based primarily on
Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our Camino in 2016.
When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers
or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany
this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was
taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of
the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain
Wikimedia Commons) indicate that source in the caption.
We
ate the buffet breakfast (included) at Hotel
Conde d’ Águeda (it would have cost €7 each).
We
departed the hotel at 9:45, after getting the carimbos we had missed when we arrived.
Águeda: carimbo stamp from “Hotel Conde d’ Águeda, Águeda – Portugal,
www.hotelcondedagueda.com.”
According to Brierley’s
guidebook, this short stage (16.3 km/10.1 mi) would be on reasonably flat
terrain with the majority on asphalt roads, but with about one-fifth on
off-road paths through pine and eucalyptus woods, along the original Via Romana
XVI.
We
went back (west) on Rua Luis Camões to the Posto de Turismo (Office of
Tourism), which was closed until 10 am and we didn’t want to wait. Then we went
west along the Rio Águeda river.
Friday, September 09, 2016, 9:50 AM – Águeda: large sculpture of wine cork
(typical of the Bairrada region) in a large park along river honors the Adega
Cooperativa (cooperative wine cellar) located next to the park.
A
sign at a farmácia (pharmacy) said it
was 21° C (69.8° F) at 10 am.
We
reached the village of Mourisca do Vouga
around 10:50 am.
10:49 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: sign entering town
(with crest of “Trofa-Águeda”).
Mourisca
do Vouga
is a vila (village) in the concelho (municipality) of Águeda, which
includes the localities of Trofa and Segadães. It was elevated to the status of
vila in 1927. It has large palacetes (mansions) built in more
prosperous times, many of which are now semi-derelict.
Trofa, or Trofa do
Vouga, was a freguesia (civil parish,
pop. 2,732) in the municipality of Águeda. It is one of the constituent
localities of the village of Mourisca do Vouga. Trofa was the seat of a small municipality,
consisting of only one parish, from 1449 to 1836, when it was incorporated into
the municipality of Vouga. In the administrative reform of 2013, that
municipality was extinguished and merged into a new União das Freguesias de
Trofa, Segadães e Lamas do Vouga (Union of the Civil Parishes of Trofa,
Segadães and Lamas do Vouga) with 4,633 inhabitants. Trofa is located in the
western part of the new parish, where the Rio Vouga river forms the border with
the municipality of Albergaria-a-Velha.
MT 10:56 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: MT with sign
entering town (with crest of “Trofa-Águeda”).
10:51 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: MT with house for
sale.
11:06 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: mansion.
11:08 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: another mansion.
11:08 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: approaching Igreja
de Mourisca do Vouga.
The church commonly called Igreja de Mourisca do Vouga is also
referred to as the Igreja Paroquial e Capela da Mourisca (Parish Church and
Chapel of Mourisca).
11:08 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: Igreja de Mourisca
do Vouga – façade and bell tower (mild telephoto 76 mm).
11:10 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: MT approaching
another mansion.
11:11 AM – Mourisca do Vouga: MT in front of
that mansion.
Around
11:22, we reached the village of Pedaçães.
11:22 AM – Pedaçães: sign entering town.
Pedaçães (meaning pieces)
is in the former freguesia (civil
parish) of Lamas do Vouga, which in 2013 was merged into the new União das
Freguesias de Trofa, Segadães e Lamas do Vouga (Union of the Civil Parishes of
Trofa, Segadães and Lamas do Vouga), in the northwest portion of the concelho (municipality) of Águeda.
Pedaçães was on the old Roman road.
11:30 AM – Pedaçães: sign for “Desvio” (Detour)
– looking back after we had passed similar signs at the other end of this
street and gone around to avoid machinery.
After
Pedaçães, we came to the Lugar de
Pinheiro Manso (Place of the Gentle Pine or Stone Pine).
11:37 AM – Lugar de Pinheiro Manso: huge pine
tree and Casa do Pinheiro Manso behind wall on right.
An Internet search revealed no
further information on this Casa do
Pinheiro Manso (House of the Gentle Pine). However, this is a very common name,
also used for at least six other (vacation rental) properties located
throughout Portugal.
The Lugar de Pinheiro Manso in a lugar
(place) in the civil parish of Recardães, aka Recardães e Espinel (officially
União das Freguesias de Recardães e Espinel), in the Concelho de Águeda.
The tree called pinheiro manso
(gentle pine) in Portuguese (botanical name pinus
pinea) is known in English as the stone pine, Italian stone pine, umbrella pine,
or parasol pine. The stone pine is a coniferous evergreen tree that can exceed
25-30 m (82-98 ft) in height; a medium-size tree us usually up to 70 ft tall
but can attain 120 ft. In maturity, it has a broad, flat crown 8-12 m (26-40
ft) wide, and rounded (unlike other pines). Stone pines have been used and
cultivated for their edible pine nuts since prehistoric times (for at least
6,000 years).
11:38 AM – Lugar de Pinheiro Manso: huge pine
tree and Casa do Pinheiro Manso behind wall on right.
11:42 AM – Lugar de Pinheiro Manso: azulejo tile sign for “Casa do Pinheiro Manso” next to main
gate in wall.
11:39 AM – Lugar de Pinheiro Manso: view in
traffic mirror across the street of huge pine tree and Casa do Pinheiro Manso
behind wall on left.
Next,
we came to Lamas do Vouga.
11:48 AM – Lamas do Vouga: sign entering town
(or freguesia?) of Lamas do Vouga,
for “Conduza com Segurança” (Drive with Safety) with the crest of the freguesia (civil parish) of Lamas do
Vouga, by recycling containers. The coat of arms has a silver shield wth wavy
blue and silver lines at its bottom flowing under a bridge with three arches;
above the bridge is a green pine tree flanked by two ears of corn. Above the
shield is a silver crown with three visible towers (indicating the rank of
village), and below it is a white scroll with the inscription “LAMAS DO VOUGA” in
black capital letters.
The village of Lamas do Vouga is in the former freguesia (civil parish) of Lamas do Vouga (pop. 729 in 2011),
which in 2013 was merged into the new União das Freguesias de Trofa, Segadães e
Lamas do Vouga (Union of the Civil Parishes of Trofa, Segadães and Lamas do
Vouga, pop. 4,633), in the northwest portion of the concelho (municipality) of Águeda, in the District of Aveiro. Despite
its small size, Lamas do Vouga is one of the most historic places in the
District of Aveiro. Its historical significance stems from the fact that the
old roads connecting the cities of the extreme west of the Iberian Peninsula
had to cross the Rio Vouga river. (The name Lamas do Vouga translates as muds
or muddy sloughs of the Vouga.) The first to pass through here was the Roman
road connecting Olisipo (Lisbon) to Bracara Augusta (Braga). Later, the
medieval roads (Moorish, Coimbra, and royal) would also pass by. Even today, it
is where the N-1/IC-2 highway passes. Another Roman road, later medieval, also
passed through Lamas do Vouga, making the connection from Viseu (the second
largest city in central Portugal after Coimbra) to the coast of Aveiro. The
earliest documentary evidence of the settlement of Lamas do Vouga was in 964.
As a religious parish (paroquia), the history of Lamas do Vouga
dates back to the Mosteiro de Santa María de Lamas (Monastery of St. Mary of
Lamas), also known as Mosteiro do Marnel, which is documented in the 10th
century and was connected to the medieval nobleman Dom Gonçalo Viegas de Marnel.
The parish church of Santa María de Lamas was consecrated in the 12th century.
In the civil organization, the freguesia (civil parish) of Lamas do
Vouga succeeded the very old concelho
(municipality) of Vouga, which was extinguished in 1853. Its seat, known as the
burgo de Vouga (village of Vouga),
was located near the estrada real
(royal road), in the place today encompassed in the urban network of the village of Lamas do Vouga. The Concelho
de Vouga was one of the numerous municipalities into which the Terra do Vouga
(Land of Vouga) was divided, a medieval territory documented in the 11th to
14th centuries, which corresponded roughly to the southern zone of the modern
District of Aveiro, i.e., from Mealhada to Albergaria-a-Velha. The seat of this
large Terra do Vouga was also the village of Vouga. When the village of Vouga
decayed, due to the sedimentation of the Vouga delta, the town of Aveiro emerged
on the coast and is now the capital of the district.
12:05 PM – Ponte Velha do Marnel: view of bridge
across water with floating evergreen-like plants.
The Ponte Velha do Marnel (Old Bridge of Marnel) is located in the freguesia (civil parish) of Lamas do
Vouga, in the concelho (municipality)
of Águeda. In a north-south direction, it crosses the Rio Marnel, a tributary
of the Vouga. The five-arched bridge was rebuilt in 1529 (some sources say
1552) on a pre-existing late medieval construction, of which there are still
some signs on the ashlar stones that were reused. The earliest documentary
mention a Ponte do Marnel was in 1327; so the original medieval bridge was
probably built in the first half of the 14th century (or perhaps in the 13th).
Therefore, the 16th-century reconstruction originally became known as Ponte
Nova do Marnel (New Bridge of Marnel), which suggests the existence of an
earlier bridge on the same river. The 13th- or 14th-century bridge was probably
built on another, Roman bridge (possibly 2nd century), since its layout is
included in an old Roman road. The bridge has undergone numerous repairs and
reconstructions over the centuries, including small reforms as late as the 18th
century. This bridge was part of the so-called Estrada Coimbrã (Coimbra Road),
which linked the city of Porto and northwest Portugal to the city of Coimbra
and closely followed the old Roman road, Via Romana XVI.
The bridge is 120 m long and 5 m
wide, resting on 5 arches: 3 perfectly round and the 2 on the ends smaller and with collapsed
bows; these are reinforced upstream by 4 trapezoidal stone talhamares
(cutwaters, blades).
12:04 PM – Ponte Velha do Marnel: center section
of bridge (telephoto 112 mm).
Around
noon, we hears church bells and saw Igreja
Paroquial de Santa Maria de Lamas do Vouga in the distance, past the bridge
to the north.
11:57 AM – Lamas do Vouga: roadbed of Ponte
Velha do Marnel, with first sight of Igreja Paroquial de Santa Maria de Lamas do
Vouga church, in distance.
MT 12:06 PM – Lamas do Vouga: Don at south end
of Ponte Velha do Marnel, with first sight of Igreja Paroquial de Santa Maria
de Lamas do Vouga church, in distance.
11:55 AM – Lamas do Vouga: first sight of Igreja
Paroquial de Santa Maria de Lamas do Vouga church, with cemetery (telephoto 260
mm).
The present Igreja Paroquial de Santa Maria de Lamas do Vouga (Parish Church of
St. Mary of Lamas do Vouga), also known as Igreja Matriz (Mother Church), in
the lugar (village) of Lamas do Vouga
in the civil parish of Lamas do Vouga, contains some remnants of the
10th-century Convento de Santa María de Lamas.
The Parish Church, dedicated to
Nossa Senhora da Conceçião (Our Lady of the Conception), is situated to
overlook the village of Lamas do Vouga, between the Vouga and Marnel rivers.
Inside, altarpieces date back to the 18th century. The sculpture of the Virgin
and Child is from the 17th century. In the sacristy is a Latin inscription in
stone from an older church, stating that that church was dedicated in 1170. The
present church was built in the 19th century. While it is difficult to see from
a distance, the facade and bell tower are covered with blue and (mostly) white azulejo tiles.
12:02 PM – Lamas do Vouga: first sight of Igreja
Paroquial de Santa Maria de Lamas do Vouga church, with cemetery (telephoto 90
mm).
After
the medieval bridge, Brierley’s notes became very hard to follow and differed
from the (mostly) well-marked Camino route, which we elected to follow.
We
crossed the N-1 highway again, but did not go “into Lamas do Vouga and under
flyover” as Brierley said. Instead, clear arrow markings had us turn right on
the highway (the road ahead had a large yellow X, meaning not to go there) and
then left, on the N-1 across a very long modern bridge, thankfully with a
pedestrian walkway.
12:24 PM – After Ponte Velha do Marnel: MT on
N-1 bridge over Rio Vouga.
12:33 PM – After Ponte Velha do Marnel: MT
finally turning left off N-1 highway (per arrow on Camino marker post at right;
sign across traffic island for entering “Lameiro”; sign at next intersection
pointing left to “Serém.”
It
was only when posting this photo to the blog that Don happened to notice the rectangular
sign for “Lameiro,” which is barely legible, even with magnification.
Lameiro is a small village
(pop. 40) in the freguesia (civil
parish) of Macinhata do Vouga, in the concelho
(municipality) of Águeda. The brief Portuguese Wikipedia entry on Lameiro do
Vouga [which translates as Slough of the Vouga] says it is not considered an aldeia (village) but only a localidade (locality) or lugar (place). It was only about 10
years ago that the name by which it had always been known became officially accepted
and a sign was put up identifying it as “Lameiro.” A Google map shows Lameiro
just on left (east) of the N-1/IC-2 highway. about 2,000 ft north of the Rio
Vouga. Brierley’s notes do not mention Lameiro, but do mention Pontilhão (but
not shown on his map), which the Google map shows off to the right (east) of
the highway, between Rio Vouga and Lameiro.
12:34 PM – Lameiro: traffic sign for right turn
toward Serém; there is also a scallop Camino marker on the wall left of that
sign with an arrow telling us to go that way, as well as a spray-painted yellow
arrow on the utility pole to the right of the sign.
12:35 PM – Outskirts of Serém de Cima: nice
modern house with interesting things in yard.
Serém
de Cima
(Upper Serém) is a small localidade
(locality) or lugar (place) in the freguesia (civil parish) of Macinhata do
Vouga, in the concelho (municipality)
of Águeda. The presence of a Pelourinho de Serém (Pillory of Serém) with the
coat of arms of King Manuel I, dating from 1514, would indicate that this place
was once granted a royal charter (foral)
as a village or town.
There is also a Serém de Baixo
(Lower Serém) off to the east, between the N-1/IC-2 highway and Rio Vouga.
12:44 PM – Serém de Cima: Don at sign entering
town after a steep climb (Brierley got the “up steeply” right).
12:44 PM – Serém de Cima: Don at sign entering
town after “recovering” from steep climb.
1:06 PM – Serém de Cima: house with shiny,
light-colored tiles on roof.
1:06 PM – Serém de Cima: MT in front of small
house with shiny, red tiles on roof and azulejo
tile pictures of São António (St. Anthony) on left and N[oss]a S[enhor]a de
Fátima” (Our Lady of Fátima) on right.
MT 1:13 PM – Serém de Cima: azulejo tile pictures of São António (St. Anthony) on left and
N[oss]a S[enhor]a de Fátima” (Our Lady of Fátima) on right, on house.
1:06 PM – Serém de Cima: azulejo tile picture of N[oss]a S[enhor]a de Fátima” (Our Lady of
Fátima) on house.
As
we passed through Serém de Cima, we looked for the two cafés listed in Brierley
in order to buy something to eat, but we saw no café or grocery store.
After
Serém de Cima, there was no “T-junction” (as Brierley mentioned) before we
entered a eucalyptus forest (Brierley was right about the forest)
Shortly
after 1 pm, we stopped at the minimercado
(small market) Rogerio A dos Santos in Valongo
do Vouga. We bought two bananas for a total of €0.41.
Valongo
do Vouga
is a village in the freguesia (civil
parish, pop. 4,877) of the same name, in the concelho (municipality) of Águeda. The name Valongo comes from the
Latin Vallum Longum, referring to the
long valley along which Roman villas were located near an important road
junction. It is located on the left bank of the Rio Vouga, which gives it the
other part of its name. Administratively, the parish of Valongo was in the
Middle Ages in the Concelho de Vouga; when that municipality was extinguished
in 1853, Valongo became part of the Concelho de Águeda.
After
Valongo do Vouga, we continued on a path through the eucalyptus forest. While
still in the forest, we entered the Município
de Albergaria-a-Velha.
The Município de Albergaria-a-Velha (Municipality of
Albergaria-a-Velha, pop. 25,252) is a municipality in the Aveiro District, with
its seat in a town of the same name. There is archaeological evidence of
settlements in this area in prehistoric times. In 1117, Dona Teresa, Countess
of Portucale* and mother of Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal,
donated the lands that now constitute the municipality to the nobleman Gonçalo
Eriz. As part of the donation, the nobleman was obliged to maintain a hospice (albergaria) to shelter poor travelers;
thence came the name of the area. In the 13th century, because there were two
such hospices in the area, the older place became known as Albergaria-a-Velha
(the Old Albergaria) and the other as Albergaria-a-Nova (the New Albergaria).
The municipality was created in 1834, when the older municipality of Aveiro was
dismembered.
* Portucale comes from the Roman
name Portus Cale for the area around
an ancient port and town of Cale or Porto Cale (now Porto). From 868 to 1139, there
was a Condado (County) of Portucale ruled
by a count, encompassing most of what is now northern Portugal. Afonso Henriques
was the last Count of Portucale (1112-1139), until he was proclaimed the first
king of a new Kingdom of Portugal, as Afonso I.
French Map of County of
Portucale
1:16 PM – After Valongo do Vouga: official
Camino marker with arrow pointing straight ahead and spray-painted yellow arrow
on tree pointing to the right, where there was also a Camino sign.
1:16 PM – After Valongo do Vouga: sign for
“Caminho de Santiago Albergaria-a-Velha” the route through the Município de
Albergaria-a-Velha.
1:16 PM (Cropped) – After Valongo do Vouga: sign
for “Caminho de Santiago Albergaria-a-Velha” the route through the Município de
Albergaria-a-Velha; it shows a split in the route with the left option going
through Assilhõ and the right one through Cavada Nova and then rejoining near
Albergaria-a-Velha, then continuing north through Nossa Senhora do Socorro,
Albergaria-a-Nova, Mundo Novo, Laginhas, Outeirinho, and Coche.
MT 1:25 PM – After Valongo do Vouga: MT with
recently planted eucalyptus trees.
MT 1:29 PM – After Valongo do Vouga: selfie of
MT and Don with eucalyptus trees.
1:30 PM – After Valongo do Vouga: sign for Zona
de Caça Municipal (Municipal Hunting Zone) along path through eucalyptus.
Occasionally,
we came to a fork in the wooded path where there was no sign or arrow. (Once,
all the trees on the right side had been cut down, possibly including any tree
that might have had an arrow.) When in doubt, we went north.
1:37 PM – After Valongo do Vouga: split in path
through eucalyptus, where Camino marker post with arrow pointing up, meaning straight
ahead, was on the right fork.
1:37 PM (Cropped) – After Valongo do Vouga:
split in path through eucalyptus, where Camino marker post (see red circle) with
arrow pointing up, meaning straight ahead, was on the right fork.
1:46 PM – After Valongo do Vouga: sign for
“Albergues” (pilgrim hostels) in Albergaria-a-Velha (2 km) and
Albergaria-a-Nova (9 km).
We
reached the first edge of Albergaria-a-Velha
at 2 pm.
The cidade (city) of Albergaria-a-Velha
(pop. 7,400) is the seat of a município
(municipality, pop. 25,252)
of the same name in the District of Aveiro. The municipality consists of six freguesias (civil parishes), also called communes (communes).
Albergaria-a-Velha: coat of arms of municipality of “Vila
de Albergaria-a-Velha” (CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=303381).
The
coat of arms of the municipality features an azure cross on a gold shield, surrounded
by a sable border with eight herldic roses and topped by a silver crown with
four towers. Around the bottom is a white scroll with black capital letters “VILA
DE ALBERGARIA-A-VELA.” The cross represente the Holy Cross, which is the local
patron of the former Albergaria-a-Vela Commune. Each rose represents one of the
pre-2013 communes. The crown indicates the status of vila (town), although it was upgraded to a cidade (city) in 2011.
The first references to Albergaria-a-Velha
as a vila (town) occurred in the
middle of the 16th century, in the form of a stone tablet, topped with a cross,
which was ordered by the government in Lisbon to be placed on the front the first
hospital (albergaria) in 1629. With
the demolition of the Royal Hospital of Albergaria in the 19th century, that
stone was delivered to the Câmara Municipal (Municipal Council [town hall]),
and since the middle of the 20th century, it has been displayed in the Paços do
Concelho (Palaces of the Municipality). The stone tablet is one of the main
symbols of Albergaria-a-Velha, reminding the inhabitants of the origins of
their land.
Albergaria-a-Velha: Stone
Tablet of the Royal Hospital of Albergaria (1629) (https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albergaria-a-Velha#/media/File:Lapide_do_Real_Hospital_de_Albergaria.jpg).
We
had some trouble locating Residencial
Casa da Alameda, where we were
supposed to stay. Our lodging voucher showed the address as 14 Avenida [Bernardino]
Maximo [de] Albuquerque, which Don had discovered on the Internet was actually
the location of a new municipal hostel, Albergue de Peregrinhos Rainha D. Teresa
(Hostel of Pilgrims of Queen Dona Teresa), which opened in 2015, the name
commemorating the founding of a pilgrim hospice here by the Queen Mother Dona
Teresa in the 12th century. Casa da Alameda was actually a couple of blocks farther
north, on the Alameda 5 de Outubro (Avenue of the 5th of October), although
some Internet sources give its address as Avenida Bernardino Máximo de Albuquerque
No. 2/6. A man who spoke French helped us find it, and we arrived there at
2:30.
Saturday, September 10, 2016,
8:08 AM - Albergaria-a-Velha: Casa da Alameda – exterior, Residencial part (including upper floor
above storefront of a travel agency as well as lower building to right, where
we actually stayed) with MT by entrance.
Saturday, September 10, 2016,
8:08 AM - Albergaria-a-Velha: Casa da Alameda – exterior, Restaurant part at left,
with sign at the entrance that also identifies it as an “Adega” (wine cellar),
and MT in front of Residencial part (at
right).
Albergaria-a-Velha: carimbo stamp from “Casa da Alameda,
3850 Alb.-A-Vela” with coat of arms of “Vila de Albergaria-a-Velha.”
We were shown to our room (No. 108) and only took the time to wash hands before going down to eat lunch. (Although the half-board on our voucher said “Breakfast & Dinner,” we had asked if we could have lunch rather than dinner, since we had arrived during the late Portuguese lunch time.)
Friday, September 09, 2016, 2:34 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Casa da Alameda –
our room (No. 108).
2:34 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Casa da Alameda –
our room (No. 108), with antique wardrobe and Don’s backpack, walking poles,
hat, water bottle, and guidebook.
2:35 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Casa da Alameda –
our room (No. 108), beds with antique headboards.
2:39 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Casa da Alameda –
MT at bottom of old staircase, with azulejo
tiles on wall, leading down to entrance at street level.
The
Restaurante Casa da Alameda was
actually an adega (wine cellar), as
the sign over the door had indicated. We got: bread; 0.5-liter bottle of water;
pitcher (0.5 liter?) of red wine drawn from barrel; for main course, we both
had bacalhao com grão (cod with chickpeas;
we asked what grão meant, and the man
brought chickpeas from the kitchen; our Berlitz Portuguese dictionary said grão meant grain) which also came with cooked
potatoes and hard-boiled eggs; for desert, MT had fruit salad and Don mousse chocolate.
2:50 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Restaurante Casa
da Alameda – MT at table next to wine barrels (there were more on both side walls).
2:52 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Restaurante Casa
da Alameda – man drawing wine from small barrel into pitcher for our table.
MT 3:05 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Restaurante
Casa da Alameda – Don with glass of wine with barrels on wall by our table.
3:09 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Restaurante Casa
da Alameda – pitcher of wine on our table, with Don’s bacalhao com grão.
After
lunch, we showered and washed clothes. We took the clothes down to the lady who
had said she would hang them out on the line for us.
A
bit later, we went out to look around, first heading for the Igreja Matriz (Mother Church). We got
there at 6 pm and were told there would be a mass at 6:30; so we stayed.
However, the priest didn’t arrive until 7:00.
5:46 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: on our way to the
church, two goats on a wall next to a house for sale (vende-se).
5:50 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: MT in front of Igreja
Matriz (Mother Church) – facade and bell tower.
The Igreja Matriz de Albergaria-a-Velha (Mother Church of
Albergaria-a-Velha), which was founded in medieval times, was in ruins by the
middle of the 17th century. The current church was built between 1692 and 1695.
However, in 1759, it suffered a terrible fire, from which only the chancel (main
chapel) and some statues survived. The church was rebuilt in the second half of
the 18th century.
The church is dedicated to the
Santa Cruz (Holy Cross) and, therefore, is sometimes known as Igreja de Santa
Cruz (Church of the Holy Cross) or Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz (Mother Church
of the Holy Cross).
The simple facade is bordered by
pilasters with pinnacles. The main portal, with a straight lintel bearing the
date 1692, is flanked by pilasters topped by pinnacles. The rectangular window
in the facade has a straight lintel topped by a triangular pediment. The facade
is topped with small pinnacles and a cross in the center. A bell tower is
attached to the right side.
In the single nave, renovated in
the second half of the 18th century, are four altarpieces of rocaille carvings,
gilded and polychromed. The main chapel has a gilded altarpiece from the late
17th century, in the National Baroque style. The side altars are from the
second half of the 18th century. Also notable is the triumphal arch, of carved gilded
rocaille from the second half of the 18th century, which separates the main
chapel from the nave. The pulpits are from the 18th century, while the hemispherical
baptismal font (made of marmorite with a wooden cover) is from the 17th.
Rocaille is an
18th-century artistic and architectural style of decoration characterized by
elaborate ornamentation with pebbles, shells, and scroll motifs; it is found especially
as ornamentation of a rococo fountain, grotto, or interior.
5:50 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Igreja Matriz
(Mother Church) – “1692” on lintel over front door.
5:51 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Igreja Matriz
(Mother Church) – view from rear of nave to main altar in apse (horizontal),
with MT in pew at right.
5:53 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Igreja Matriz
(Mother Church) – main altar in apse, with MT in pew at right.
5:53 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: Igreja Matriz
(Mother Church) – baptismal font off right front of nave, with azulejo tiles on walls.
On
the way back to our room at Casa da Alameda after mass, we went down a street
where all the houses and walls were decorated with old tires and sculptures created by cutting of tires, all painted in
bright colors.
7:09 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: tire sculpture of
parrot.
MT 7:16 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: tire sculpture
of bird, with Portuguese flags.
MT 7:16 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: another tire sculpture
of bird, with Portuguese flags.
MT 7:17 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: another tire
sculpture of bird, with Portuguese flags.
7:09 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: row of colored
tires holding flowering plants, on wall opposite houses.
7:10 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: MT by house with
tire sculptures of birds and plant holders.
7:11 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: another row of
colored tires holding flowering plants, on wall with church in background.
7:12 PM – Albergaria-a-Velha: strange windmill
on same street and another windmill in distance (between trees at bottom
right).
No comments:
Post a Comment